MIMF

Well, here it is on a mandolin that I built and am now gearing up to build a guitar. This one is headed to finishing booth soon. I spoke with some other builders that make Irwin tributes and they all confirmed the key was a tight slot and CA adhesive. I've done three mandolins so far and each one is...

Sorry. Its 16 gauge square brass wire. It measures .058. I'll use a 1.5mm chisel. Gauges aren't universal to all materials. Its not technically binding. Maybe trim or accent. It does run the perimeter of the body on the side top and bottom although I don't think I'll be doing that. I'm just going to...

Thanks to all. After having done some research, I ordered some brass 14 gauge square brass stock. I am going to glue it in with epoxy. It seems that an awful lot of builders do this without issue so I guess I'm going to give it a go. Now, I just need to figure out the best way to cut the channel aro...

headtsock.jpg For my headstocks, I use a .006 abalone laminate sheet with a backing. Easy to cut with a laser and cnc. I cut the pocket in the headstock about 3x as deep, install the inlay then flood it with CA. This prevents me from getting in to the inlay when I sand the headstock. So, I just got...

What compounds are you using with it? I've been looking for a new process and this looks promising.

I am taking a stab at building a Tiger/Rosebud inspired guitar. Trying to figure out the best way to do the brass binding around the perimeter of the body. Do I do it as I glue the layers of laminates up or use a wing cutter once its assembled and shaped. Just not sure the best way to approach this....

I think intonation is a must have on a mandolin such as this because many people are using alternate tunings and will often use a lighter string then they would on an acoustic because they are more apt to bend strings. Its nice to have flexibility. I have a couple different types of bridges that I u...

I use a 14.5" scale length on almost everything I build but that is mostly single course electrics. The benefit is that the E string isn't so piercing when you play up the neck and it can be tuned CGDA or GDAE. Its hard to complete a four finger chord in first position but most electric players...

Who is the auction company?

Bob Francis wrote:Beautiful work Andrew!

Thanks. Not really rocket science but fortunate to have the resources and equipment to make them. I just hate the retail end of it.

I build them and sell them on my website. They are on the accessories page. http://www.crossroadswood.com If inappropriate to post my website address then I'll delete it.

Thanks, I haven't thought about the plans. It's something to ask MIMF plans guru Jamie Unden about. Just came across this thread. I love these instruments and have built a couple myself. I had an original one go through a flood and disintegrate so I took the measurements off it and made a set of ha...

Thanks. I think I'll laminate walnut to either side of the red then go with maple. Hopefully that will help minimize the appearance of bleeding. Any recommendations on a glue? The application will be 1/4" maple drop top, walnut veneer, two pieces red veneer, walnut veneer, figured maple body.

I am looking for some red veneer for an electric guitar project. Overall size would be 13"Wx17"L. Anyone know where to get any pieces? I'd dye them myself but am concerned with bleeding. I want to sandwich them between two pieces of maple and not have them bleed. Also, any recommendations ...

I have a 1972 Kasuga KF-440 that was given to me by a friend for my son to learn on. The bridge is tipping forward and the top behind the bridge is bellying about an 1/8". Also, the finish on the center seam is "crazed" but I don't think the center seam is cracked. When I loosened the...

I have a large figured maple board that I'd like to use for a neck on a solid body guitar. It will be a bolt on neck. I've always used quartersawn material for my necks, but in order to get a good yield I would need to orientate the grain on the slab. I really wanted to avoid using wings. I normally...

I absolutely love my 14.5" scale mandolins, especially my five string. I can tune them either CGDA or GDAE. I think 15" is too long for a mandolin player to transition from a standard scale.

Steel string with a Venetian style cutaway.

I am building my first guitar. On ukuleles, I have used a sound hole patch but I've seen braces and sound hole patches on various sets of drawings. I am not working from a formal set of plans. Can anyone offer a reason to go one way or another?

Thanks