MIMF

Thanks Barry. Yeah, I basically knew to leave them alone. I don't know what possessed me to try to smooth them out. The transition line felt a little too abrupt, but I should have just left them alone. Live and learn...again!! I will try some thinned lacquer with a small artist's brush!

I refinished the back on a one year old guitar (nitro finish). I had masked the top, neck, and sides right up to the back binding edge so I could spray the back. After curing the finish, I tried to smooth the transition on the binding edge from the new finish to the old (where the masking edge was l...

Sorry to ask one more question. Now that I have removed the finish down to the bare wood, is there anything more I should do to address the cracks? (I filled them with CA on the finish side before removing the finish and also from inside). I cleated the cracks on the inside. Do I need to reapply gra...

Hey Barry. Trying to sand down below the excess CA and respraying didn't work. So, I think I need to take the back down to bare wood, start over, and refinish it. Just to be clear, you don't think that using a good clear epoxy like West System or SB-112 System III to attempt to fill any pores that d...

I think I will try that first. Thanks a bunch Barry!

Hey Barry. The guitar was fully finished before I filled the cracks, the guitar is a year old. If I need to sand down, could I just go far enough to take off the excess CA glue on the finish around the cracks and not all the way to the wood?

Sounds good Barry. I agree. Thanks!

Finish Edges. There were no depressions before I sprayed and I scraped the CA flush so that I could not feel it on the surface before I sprayed. The spray coat flowed up to where the CA was and sort of conglomerated along the CA edges. Todd in the last post said the CA will mess with the surface ten...

Okay. I must have done something wrong! I filled the cracks with CA, scraped the glue flush with the finish (and it felt smooth. I mean I couldn't feel the cracks), then I scuff sanded, masked the rest of the guitar and shot it with coat of Nitro lacquer and what you see in the pic is what I got. Th...

Thanks Barry. I think if I can get the medium CA down in the cracks, then level with razor blade method and finally spray the back, I should be okay. David, I am out west (Utah) where the humidity on average is pretty low year round. I had the wood in my shop for about 4 years before I used it. I fi...

Thanks Barry! Hey, I had someone suggest that I strip the back finish off, apply clear epoxy to fill any cracks (and potentially prevent further cracks in the future), possibly even put CA in the known cracks as a double precaution, sand the epoxy down, and then refinish the back. It kind of sounds ...

Should I use thin or medium viscosity superglue. Will medium wick into the crack well enough from the finish side, or do I need to put a dam on the inside (not sure what) and then fill from the finish side with thin viscosity CA?

Correction, I can actually see the cracks on the inside of the guitar, so they do go all the way through. Should I feel with superglue from the inside and then cleat with hide glue? How do I minimize the glue going through to the finish side? They are pretty tight cracks, maybe that won't be a conce...

Thanks David. I can't see the crack lines on the inside and the one at the top runs very close to the neck block, if not under it. Do you recommend super glue from the finish side to fill the cracks? I do keep my shop humidity between 40-50%.

Hey guys, I built a dreadnought guitar with a three piece back out of beautiful Macassar Ebony with sap wood. There are 3 long hairline cracks that have opened up in the sapwood area of the back. (See the attached pics). They showed up after I had sprayed the guitar and let it cure for a few weeks. ...

I filled the crack (I thought) with super glue at the bare wood stage and then applied finish. I think I have enough finish to level one more time in about 12 days. Thanks.

I had a tight crack in the back of a dreadnought I am building that I thought I had adequately repaired and filled before finishing. I applied the finish, let it cure for 15 days, and sanded and buffed out the finish today. A few hours later I could see the crack line subtly in the finish. I am givi...

Alan, I too am thinking of using a symmetric top brace system and just changing the bridge plate. I am also thinking that the pin less bridge is the way to go. Any help on how to make the bridge so that it is not too massive to accommodate the saddle angle? Also, the person interested in this guitar...

I am considering building a fanned fret or multi-scale 6-string guitar. I have built several dozen successful guitars with standard scale lengths and the fanned fret guitars intrigue me. Does anyone have experience you can share with a fanned fret build. I am wondering specifically about the modific...

I have done a few dovetail joints, but I always seem to struggle with getting them to fit snug. I am building a flat top and am currently trying to fit the neck to the dovetail joint (fretboard is glued to the neck, and the body and neck are not finished. The neck angle is good and the center-line i...