MIMF

I have been thinking about how to ensure that the fretboard is angled correctly. A small angled wedge made from the fretboard wood, trapped under the fretboard seems to be the most practical method. Obviously the heel will need angling first. I know that one could have an angled fretboard. However i...

Thanks again to Mike and Eddie. I have started to build the neck. I will use the same scale length of 25.5". I will use 12.75" distance from nut to the 12th fret and add an extra 1/8" as compensation for string bend affects from the 12th fret to saddle.. I have a small laminate trimme...

Continued

To Eddie

I also use a compensated bone saddle.

Do you mean saddle or nut?

2) Standard fretboard dimensions on a 12 fret are 1 3/4" at the nut and 2 1/4" at the 12 fret/body join.

These are the same as the import neck.

Thanks to you all for your helpful comments. To Freeman While you have it apart you might consider a cone upgrade - one test of the quality of the cone is to tap it with your finger - the more it rings the better. I've heard some stamped cones that just make kind of a dull thud Later on I will defin...

Thanks Freeman and Michael I want to play "Spanish" (Frets) and slide a la Robert Johnson. The guitar I have bought is a Nickel plated bodied Single Cone, 12 Fret, MM Lightning see http://www.buskerguitars.co.uk/5.html. This is imported from China. I have removed the coverplate and cone an...

Thanks for the comments. I've managed to avoid building the metalwork. There is a company here in the UK importing resonator guitars. They have offered me a guitar with a badly fretted neck at a reduced price. This means that I only need to build the neck. I am under the impression that resonator gu...

I want to build a steel or german silver bodied resonator guitar using the methods outlined by Mike Dotson, Chris Paulick and Clay Jones a few years ago in the MIMF forum. My guess is that steel will cost less than German Silver. However GS is softer and easier to work. I want, ideally, to mo(u)ld /...