Appalachian dulcimer mould

[Erle Bartlett]

What's the go with the depth of the mould I'll be making up? I suppose it should be the same as the sides, but how critical is that? Lower, higher or doesn't matter?

[Jim McConkey]

For what it's worth, I have never used one on any of the many dulcimers I have built (different sizes and shapes). Might take a little more time and care in bending, but I have never regretted it. If you do go that way, I would suggest going a little smaller over larger, simply because you can glue the top or back on while still in the mold.

[Bryan Bear]

I agree with Jim. You don't really need a mold for these. Nothing wrong with using one though. You will definitely want it to be shorter/thinner than the instrument though. If you are using a mold, you'll want to use it while clamping in the linings and that will be much easier if it is shorter than the rim.

[Barry Daniels]

I made a mold out of a single piece of 3/4" plywood which worked fine.

[Erle Bartlett]

Thanks gents, your comments are appreciated!

[Alan Carruth]

I've always used a peg board for hourglass and teardrop shaped dulcimers. The sides are threaded in and out of a pattern of dowels to define the shape. The dowels are short enough to allow for gluing in the top liners. Once they're in the top edge is dressed off, and the top glued on. When that's dry the whole thing can be lifted off the pegboard, and flipped over onto another jig to work on the back.

A few years ago I got a commission for a fancy dulcimer in what I call the 'Ozark' style. It has corners, like a fiddle. I had not built one in some time, and ginned up a new shape and mold for it. Here's the mold with the hea and tail blocks on, and the C bouts gluing up.

Here's a shot of the assembled instrument with the first coat of varnish.