Inlay Question

[Danny Seamon]

I have been using a Scroll "S" as an inlay on my headstocks. See attached pictures. I have been having trouble with the S breaking. After routing the channel, I do a test fit and route more where needed, then do another test fit until the inlay just fits in the channel. Then, what I've been doing is removing the inlay from the channel and putting black epoxy in the channel and replacing the inlay. It is in the step where I am removing the inlay from the channel that I tend to break the piece. This thin S is hard for me to remove without it breaking. I was hoping that you guys could give me some advice. I was wondering about changing the method to once the inlay fits in the channel...instead of removing it...just wick in some thin super glue. Then fill the rest of the space up with the black epoxy. There may be a better way to do it. Anyway, any advice you could give would be appreciated. Thanks. Danny

[John Mueller]

What about black CA instead of epoxy? http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and_Su ... ml#details

[Stephen Neal Saqui]

I make a fine powder of ebony, gently rub it into the gaps and wick in CA. Always works.

[Randy Roberts]

I'm with Stephen.
As long as you are inlaying into ebony, I don't think you can beat ebony dust and thin CA.

You can be a little more generous in routering out the trough for your inlay, so removing your test fit is less hazardous.

Make your ebony dust with a clean file, not sandpaper, or you will get bits of grit showing around the inlay. Fold a piece of paper in fourths and then file your doner ebony over it to collect the dust. The folded paper makes placing the dust accurately in the inlay, instead of all over your shop, easier.

Secure your inlay with a drop of CA.

rub the ebony dust into the spaces around the inlay with your finger (a rubber glove or finger cot makes it less messy for you). pack it in tight as you can, and build it up higher than the inlay.

Apply the thin CA a drop or two at a time. If you go overboard with the CA you risk it boiling from the exothermic heat as it solidifies, and can end up with white "foam" from boiling the liquid CA. The ebony dust will settle, so rub a little more in and hit again with the CA.

Sand down level.

If you then coat the entire surface, across the entire solid ebony that you are inlaying into, the the CA/ebony dust and the surounding ebony will have the same refractive qualities, and you won't be able to see where the edge of the original trough was, and it will look like you did a perfect job with the inlay.

[Mark Swanson]

I'm with Stephen too, that's how I do it.

[Randy Roberts]

addendum:

That last paragraph should have read "If you then coat the entire surface, with thin CA and lightly sand down smooth.....

Hope that's more clear.

[Stephen Neal Saqui]

I buy thicker ab and mother of pearl from Chuck Erikson http://www.dukeofpearl.com/. The thicker material reflects better and is stronger for cutting and shaping.

(Anyone can help me put up photos? Send me a private message Thank you!)

[Steven Smith]

The black CA from StewMac works very well. I switched to that from the ebony dust about a year ago.