I got the recent Acoustic Guitar magazine (Jan 2015 even though we are just about to go into Dec.) in the mail and noticed "Rodrigo Y Gabriela" playing their Yamahas.
Note that the peg head (or tuner head?) is wider between slots nearest the nut and gets narrower toward its end. This is the way I made my 3rd guitar back in the 90s.
If you think about it, that is smartest because the strings D and G do not have to go outward at a big time angle. I am not saying this is the route I want to stay on but my Number 7th build will be approaching and I want to try that route again.
BTW. This is my first post so I don't think I broke any rules mentioning brands or companies, and just saying some aspects of guitar it is good to say- They do it that way - WHY, oh because they just always did it that way, or what is actually best?
Oh and another reason- is I have a few sets of Rubner tuners, and Rubners are a bit longer than others so the holes need to be deeper and if I do the peghead this way I can leave some more wood in between the slots nearby the nut.
-Den
Reverse classical tuner head design
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Re: Reverse classical tuner head design
I used to use reverse taper on my heads too. The problem is getting the geometry just right, so that the strings don't hit inside edges of the slots.
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Re: Reverse classical tuner head design
With the Rubner's you can trim the barrels.
I may be crazy...but I'm not insane.
Re: Reverse classical tuner head design
Thanks and Thanks. I got two sets of Rubners. I like non engraved ones. Less is more to me.