Bridge design for archtop guitars
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Dave Stewart
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:25 pm
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Re: Bridge design for archtop guitars
Jason, I don't think position matters as long as the guitar is free to vibrate. I've done it with the guitar in a stand and also hanging in a cabinet.
Dave
Milton, ON
Milton, ON
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Dave Stewart
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:25 pm
- Contact:
Re: Bridge design for archtop guitars
re Tonerite, thought I'd pass along a post from Paul Burner on OLF, if it's ok
"So.... you want to check out the ToneRite to see if it is all it is cracked up to be?
I received an email today letting me know that they are having a sale today - 50% off the normal price and free shipping.
Here's the scoop from them:
We are offering a 50% off discount for tomorrow! (Monday) Please enter coupon code VASTR to get the discount when you order on our website.
Some of you think it is hooey - some of you wish you could try it out - some of us love them. Here's your chance."
No idea...just passing along
"So.... you want to check out the ToneRite to see if it is all it is cracked up to be?
I received an email today letting me know that they are having a sale today - 50% off the normal price and free shipping.
Here's the scoop from them:
We are offering a 50% off discount for tomorrow! (Monday) Please enter coupon code VASTR to get the discount when you order on our website.
Some of you think it is hooey - some of you wish you could try it out - some of us love them. Here's your chance."
No idea...just passing along
Dave
Milton, ON
Milton, ON
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Paco Jimenez
- Posts: 37
- Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2012 7:25 am
Re: Bridge design for archtop guitars
I don't think that there is an ideal kind of bridge, or a magical recipe for the best bridge ever, or a single route to go for a generic all-round bridge. Archtops plates and bracings can be very different. This gives a wide palette of instruments from those soft an warm sounding often having rather thick plates to those more traditional (think of typical '30s makes) sounding bold, lively and loud. Normally this is not directly related to the type of bracing. We know tonebars have an important impact in the kind of voice, but '30s X-braced usually sound bold, lively and loud.
Personally I tend to prefer light weight bridges, but mainly because I tend to favor those kinda prewar style guitars and light weight bridges use to work better on those plates. But not always. I had improvements by adding mass in certain guitars and removing mass on others of the same "type". It's clear there are no fixed rules. Only a few generic guidances to start with and from that point just experimenting.
Regarding the two feet versus full contact single foot. I tend to prefer full contact but some guitars clearly improve having two feet. Again, no magic recipe for this.
IMHO, the best route is making the kind of bridge that fits better a particular guitar. I like to have a set of bulk raw bridges on hand of different masses and wood spices. I try them all and choose the direction to take after few tests. It doesn't take too long and the guitar "tells" you what she prefers.
Personally I tend to prefer light weight bridges, but mainly because I tend to favor those kinda prewar style guitars and light weight bridges use to work better on those plates. But not always. I had improvements by adding mass in certain guitars and removing mass on others of the same "type". It's clear there are no fixed rules. Only a few generic guidances to start with and from that point just experimenting.
Regarding the two feet versus full contact single foot. I tend to prefer full contact but some guitars clearly improve having two feet. Again, no magic recipe for this.
IMHO, the best route is making the kind of bridge that fits better a particular guitar. I like to have a set of bulk raw bridges on hand of different masses and wood spices. I try them all and choose the direction to take after few tests. It doesn't take too long and the guitar "tells" you what she prefers.