Need direction for my CS-336 Clone build

[Graeme Ward]

I hope someone can point me in the right direction, here is what I've got so far:

What I need to know is what to do next, do I route the mortise for the neck, then the pickup cavities and after that make the neck with fingerboard attached, or should I make the neck first.
Some guidance in this area as to which order I should follow would be most appreciated, maybe a YouTube video would help me as this is my first woodworking project (I'm a boilermaker ).
I have bought a set of plans from Jamie Unden.

Thank you
Graeme

[Freeman Keller]

I would build the neck at this point. There are two critical dimensions - the width at the nut and the width at the body joint - the latter has to perfectly match the width of your two cutaways and the neck heel needs to flow into the body there. I build the neck tenon first, then route the mortise into the body to fit, then I do the pickup cavities last.

You asked for Youtube videos - this is a pretty good one building a LP Junior - parts one and two build the neck, then in the last portion of part 3 he sets it. The jig that he shows for setting the neck angle and routing the pocket is very clever - I built one for my second solid body and it made this operation much easier. Also his trick of fitting the jig to the width of the tenon, them putting a layer of tape on each side to make the pocket slightly smaller means a nice tight perfect fit. Here is the first video, the others should appear on the side bar

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDlUTreI1M

[Jamie Unden]

You can do either one right now, just make sure you route the pickup holes before you attach the neck. You' want to fit the neck to the body before you put on the fretboard. You don't have to glue it in first, but you want to make sure the 1 1/2° angle of the neck matches the body so you'll have to plane the body to match.

[Graeme Ward]

Thanks Freeman and Jamie for your guidance, it has given me more of an idea as to what to do next and I am very grateful that you have been here for me.
I have been a bit nervous about starting on the neck, but I have to make a start sometime, so here I go, don't go away 'cause I'm sure I'll be back when I hit another snag.

Thanks again guys for your help
Graeme

P.S. Have you thought of moving over here to the Barossa Valley, then you could come and help me build

[Jamie Unden]

Hey - send me a ticket! Also, you might want to practice the neck on some scrap wood first. I do this all the time.

[Graeme Ward]

Good idea Jamie, I'll get some wood from the men's shed tomorrow.
Now I can't wait to get into it.

Thanks Jamie
Graeme

[Robert Smallwood]

Hi.
Have you 'angled' the top? Ifg you do that from say just behind tghe front pickup you will have a flat angled surface for your neck pocket routing. abouty 3deg IIRC Also check how much hand clearance there is in the cutaways. My first ever attempt was a similar guitar. I knew nothing, and it still turned out. beginners' luck!!
Afre you going to carve tghe tgop?

Regards.Rob.

[Graeme Ward]

Thanks Rob,
First, I'm glad you pointed out the angled top for the neck pocket, that idea should make it easier for me to fit the neck and with the next point, the hand clearance at the cutaway's, the guitar is for my wife and she would hardly ever get past Bb and if she can't play it then I will hang it on the wall just to look at.
And no I'm not going to carve the top as such, just shape where you suggested and at the bottom area where I want to fit a Bigsby B7 tailpiece.

Thanks again Rob