MIMF

Michael, thanks for the insight. I'm hunting up some rosewood blanks now. I have the bone I'll use. Shaping the bottom, do you lay fine sandpaper over the footprint, and slide the bottom of the new bridge over it , sound hole to endblock direction, to duplicate the top arc? Or just eyeball and freeh...

Thanks for the side view. That answers the last of my cosmetic questions. The last issue I would like to throw out there would be input on a target weight for the replacement. My experience with classicals in nil. So I'm looking for some education here from builders, repair persons or anyone who has...

Thanks for the pictures. Is the tie block level on the top, or slightly slanted downward to the saddle? Rosewood, plastic or bone for the saddle and nut? I like that 1930's detective movie look on that last picture. I can hear Humphery Bogart threatening to "pull its strings off" if it &qu...

Here are a few pictures of the bridge I have. It is from a Framus donor cadaver.

A couple more pictures.

Thanks in advance.

Hobbiest here, non professional. I purchased a Aria A558 classical guitar in a garage sale that is missing its bridge. There are a few tight cracks in the top and a loose area of the binding. These are repairs I can do with hide glue. It seems to be a mid 60's - early 70's model from the little bit ...

If I do replace the neck and FB, would it now make this bad boy body a Starcaster-ated?

Should I make it a Tenor?

Painful thought.

Stay tuned for my next episode of "Tales From The Bottom of The Dumpster".

Hope springs eternal. Low end guitars are a reality all their own. This is now just a learning process. I'll try to heat the nut again. I have used an extension to add some torque. If that strikes out again, I try heating the FB and neck, clamp it straight and see what results that gets. If I can't ...

Well, I tried the clamp to force some back bow and it would not come loose. Heated the allen wrench also using the clamp method and could feel heat in the wood below the nut, but no movement in either direction. Tried this 3 seperate times without any change. Gave the kid another, playable guitar un...

Mark, thanks for the tip. I have two allen wrenches that fit it well. I'll heat up one and then apply pressure with the second. I'll let you know how it comes out.

John

Hobbiest, non-professional here. Had a kid come by with his garage sale find, a Fender Starcaster acoustic. The neck needs major adjusting, but a previous owner stripped out the hex surfaces on the truss nut and it is hard to get a grasp on it. This is adjusted through the sound hole, through a brac...

Hobbiest here, not a professional. Brown gravey glue ( hide glue) as I remember reading about it before. Look closely, the roast beef and mashed potatoes may still be in there. I can't remember where I read it , but I read that Harmoney never cleaned their glue pots, only added more pre-mixed and wa...

Additional information from Yamaha. The neck joint is assembled with a white glue that is release-able with steam.

Thanks again everyone.

Thanks everyone for the responces. Just heard back from Yamaha. This model has a traditional dovetail joint. Never know what you'll find in there. I had a low end Yamaha F-310 that had a verticle single dowel that straddled the neck heel and the neck block. Never saw that one coming. Again, thanks e...

Hobbiest here, non professional. I've been dumpster diving again. Anyone have any experience with a Yamaha APX-4-12 neck joint? Is it a dovetail, mortise or dowel? I have one that may require a neck reset. I put a Bridge Doctor System unit in it, and have been drawing the belly out over the last 3 w...

Hobbiest here, non professional. I'm looking at the option of installing the JDL Bridge System on a Yamaha APX 4-12 to flatten out a very bad belly issue. I have not installed one of these before. Has anyone any insight that they can share? The picture on Stemacs site appears to show main unit resti...