MIMF

Those old discussions are still accessible in the library. I bet that few people here now have ever searched this virtual treasure trove.

Kevlar would have little bending resistance so an applied pressure could still cause a crack.

Please tell us the full crazy request.

Is this an April fool's joke?

I am willing to take on some pretty risky projects, but I wouldn't touch that with a 10 foot hollow pole.

At the time these were made, they were advertised as the next great innovation in guitar design. However, Kasha was scientist (acoustics) but not a builder. Richard Schneider, a well known builder, made the first prototypes and worked with Gibson to come up with their version. The top bracing was th...

They won't tell you what kind of glue they used? Not very customer friendly, Warmoth!

Once, I got the Gibson neck apart and straight I let it sit for a month to verify that the un-reinforced wood neck would hold its shape. It did. And this verified for me that the problem was not the wood but external forces. In my case it was severe over-torqueing of the truss rod. Taking a fretboar...

Have you seen this? https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5637&hilit=gibson+j45 My approach consisted of taking off the fretboard and taking out the truss rod. Once I had the bare neck, I straightened it with heat, clamped it in place to let it cool, and then rebuilt the neck with an approp...

It is always good to have a nice archtop that you can study to see how it all flows together.

I found a 1/4" tool holder to fit my Taig. I have never used insert tooling before so I am not sure what to do with it. So, the carbide inserts are not used on steel?

If a neck is already separated from the body, I usually do most of the work while it is off. Also, it is better to have a straight neck first so you can determine if any angle adjustment is necessary on the dovetail.

I deleted it.

Holy cow that is a twisted neck. Similar to my J-45. That is going to be a challenge. Not using an adjustable truss rod is only going to make your job more difficult. I rebuilt an early 30's martin and added 3 carbon fiber bars in lieu of an adjustable truss rod. It can be done, but I would only do ...

I was sitting here looking at the tailpiece again. And I had a thought; from a geometric standpoint, shouldn't the holes on the outside edges be spaced a little farther apart in order to keep equidistant string spacing.

Here is the link:viewtopic.php?f=8&t=5637&hilit=gibson+J+45

With the fingerboard off you should definitely install an adjustable truss rod. So if you install carbon you do a pair on either side of the truss rod.

That looks perfect, Eric. And I love the grain in that piece.

I like to take necks off guitars and do stuff with them. Whether the fretboard will come off easily or not depends on the state of the glue joint. An iron on the fretboard and a hot knife are your friends. If you can get the fretboard off cleanly, then all options are open. At that point, the neck w...

Nice looking plates, Alan. Can you tell me why you leave the lip around the perimeter?

It depends. If you are going to turning a bunch of steel parts then oily metal slag mixed with uncontrolled saw dust may be a reality. I have a really small metal lathe (Taig) that lives in my shop sitting on my Performax and it has been nothing but a joy. I avoid the conflict by keeping sawdust and...

What kind of maple? Any figure? How much do you need to remove? What tools you got?