MIMF

wow, super super great advice guys!! thanks a lot! its all very helpful and makes me feel a lot better. i will push on and take heed of what was posted above.its very nice to have support from MIMF! dont know what id do without this place some days. i dont have any other ways to make a living these ...

peter, yes i think youre right,i am starting a website with clear policies about these things,written out so there are no surprises. id like to think i have customers who are satisfied. i play one of my basses every day and i think they feel ok. ive had very good input from folks who have played the...

i did a build that i was really happy with. i called it the 'black and tan' it was english sycamore body,black anodized neck and all black tuners. here is a picture of it on the bench: http://i418.photobucket.com/albums/pp261/Etidorhpaunderground/IMG_1924_zpsgi6j6svm.jpg customerwon the auction on a...

awesome, thanks for the explanation,now i get it ,very helpful! my basses are cast aluminum necks so the truss rod adjustment does not exist, since there is no truss rod, i put that .020 of relief in the castings on a mechanical surface plate and then mount the fingerboards to that surface. also my ...

david,
thank you, ,can you explain this part? i dont follow:
"Push each string down between the second and third frets and tap the string down over the first fret."
everything else makes perfect sense! thanks!
-gregory

you may even just fill the holes with durhams rock hard putty and re drill them out, but be sure its filled and packed in there no air.

hello, novice newb builder here, want to get better action on my builds. i know there was thread somewhere here about this topic ,but i couldnt find it. what is a good string height at the first fret and at the 12th fret? the bass i am working on has a 33.25 scale, 20 frets. 4 string. is .12 too hig...

looks great. i just finished working a nine foot by 18 inch piece of 8/4 for another project, most inconsistent grain ever! there are like layers of soft and hard grain stacked, hard to keep flat. also it checks pretty bad and has a weird C.O.E what is the other wood its laminated to? i wonder if th...

here is another that shows it clearer:

sure here is one of a bass in mid build. you can see the bridge is screwed to the body ,its drilled out the accept teh string through but you can also slot them to pass through at the rear if you want.

also check the pickguard which can also rattle

you can also make your own bridge! i make basses and i make my bridges from cast aluminum, but you coudl very easily use steel and make your own, saddle pieces i turned on a lathe and bought hardware form MSC, good luck!

update on these, they are going very well ,see you at namm next jan!

aw man her garlic promises to be the best! i will send her everyone's best,if you all are ever up north stop in to deer isle

i will, she is also awesome! i told her that she was responsible for helping countless instrument builders,what a great site!

and it turns out she is my new neighbor, small world this site is awesome.

my buzzing was limited to the middle /higher frets, when i put the relief on the neck this went away almost entirely. the relief is mostly between the 5-6 fret to the 12-14 fret. my relief is about .05 so maybe that is too much i am building another one now and i will be putting the relief in first ...

gordon,
.015? as in 1/64th? that seems too small but .14 is way too big...hm..

gordon,
that looks more like what i needed to know thank you for posting that! the good news baout my neck design is that once i set the relief i then bind the fretboard to its surface and it wont move unless its bent. then you can bend it back no truss rod but still flexible ,gotta love metal.

i also forgot to mention that i put 1.5º of pitch to the neck as well.