MIMF

I also had some spalted maple boards, and made another guitar and bass from one of them: The guitars have 5 position switches and split humbuckers, and the basses have stacked tone and volume pots.

I've had a mimosa log for years that I rediscovered, and fashioned into some unwieldy instruments, but enjoyable to make. I guess I'd call them "Flying U's."
The log: A guitar and a bass.

I had to shim the saddles (cheap Chinese) on a neck through bass I made years ago, as they didn't have enough vertical adjustment, and there was no way to change the neck angle after the fret board was on.

For me the minimum thickness has depended on how the controls are mounted, and how deep the cavity has to be routed to accommodate the pots. This usually turns out to be 1 3/8".

Just to reply to the question, I have sanded the radius at many different stages - fretboard unattached to neck before and after taper or slotting, and fretboard glued to neck, before and after taper or slotting. For slotting I use a HFT 0.020 kerf pull saw in a homemade 90 degree jig that slides al...

It looks like your springs are tightened to the max - you need to add 2 more springs or get stronger springs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3NqsVRarFw

Welcome Danny. I don't know the correct answer to your question - I used a different soundhole scheme on the reso I built, so I didn't have to use the screens. I just now pried off one of the screens from a cheap Chinese reso I have, and it was glued on with what looks like a PVA wood glue, not what...

I'll take #13

Frustrating.
Probably no help but:
Put a small piece of thin paper on the nut slot and press the string into it - see if it persists.
Loose truss rod?
Bad string? - try another.
Dampen the string (with finger) from nut to tuner.

You've probably seen this thread here, but if not it may stimulate some ideas about tools for making nut slots.

https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=414

It was many decades ago, before the WWW and online instructions/videos, and I didn't know what I was doing - I mean, how hard could it be? :o The synthetic hair came prepared for installation, so I was lucky, though it was probably a pretty crappy job. The horse's hair was individual strands, and I ...

Good luck. Years ago I rehaired a violin bow with synthetic hair and as I remember it went OK. I tried rehairing a bass bow from the tail of one of our horses, and it was a complete disaster.

So many great methods, tips on guitar repair, and much more, and kind enough to answer emailed questions. What a loss.

Check this book out. It might turn out to be a fantastic teaching aid. I've suggested that it be added to the MIMF Amazon list, but in the meantime -- https://www.amazon.com/Building-Steel-String-Acoustic-Guitar/dp/1734125616/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3VXOD9YUBN13D&keywords=r.m.+mottola&qid=170086414...

I inkjet print them on regular copy paper, spray with rattle can lacquer, and glue with Elmer's wood glue. They will probably last as long as the instrument does, and certainly much longer than I will.

Thanks for the kind words, Philip. I am a physician (now retired) and along those same lines, I was taught (semi-jokingly) that when doing a procedure on an awake patient, and a mistake is made, you forcefully say "There!", instead of "oops."

Karl Wicklund wrote: ↑Thu Oct 05, 2023 6:22 pm Do I remember you posting another coin inlay?

I've inlaid coins, mostly Mexican but 2 Indian head pennies, in all the instruments I've made the last several years, mostly in the headstock. Easy to do once I matched drill bits with coin diameters.

Just finished a couple of basses. The tops are single piece walnut I cut out years ago from a milling offcut. Everything on these is from stuff on hand, except the black tuners and neck plate I bought to fit with the color scheme. Bodies are chambered, alder with walnut strips, as are the necks - fr...

If the neck is already cut to width, I'd think you could make the bottom of the fret board the width of the neck, and bevel out to the top the 1/32 inch, which shouldn't be very noticeable, assuming the fret board to be 1/4 inch thick (arctan 0.125 = 7 degrees.)

I've never had that problem, but I'd think a file card would clean most of the rust between the teeth, and just filing a piece of steel would get it off the tooth ridges if needed.