Detailed V Bracing Method

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Mike Conner
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Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

When I shifted from archtop to flattop guitar builds I considered following the X-brace plans I had acquired. However, the V bracing design looks very good to my engineer's brain.

I am building as gifts to honor people in our lives and serving the Lord in music ministry and other roles. Therefore, I am not selling commercially and not bound to established tradition or expectations.

Taylor has been marketing their V brace concept, but no detailed information or plans are/were available other than a couple of promotional photos. The photos clearly did not show the entire bracing, and I didn't have a "V Class" instrument to inspect. So, I created my own design using experience, common sense, and wishful thinking :D

My first flattop was a left-handed dreadnought in 2021. (no X bracing, so didn't have to reverse the traditional plan). I have completed 10 instruments to date (dreadnoughts and grand auditoriums). They all sound wonderful and definitely different than the typical X braced guitars, and they don't sound like Taylors either. There are three grand auditorium fronts out for signing, and this documents another grand auditorium front. This is a Salvaged Sinker Sitka Spruce front, and will be paired with an East Indian Rosewood back and sides, and my Curly Red Maple laminated neck.

It starts with a design and plan. Both my dreadnought and grand auditorium designs are a full 16" wide. For the grand auditorium, I traced the outline of my Taylor GA3. The bracing plan for both instruments is basically the same, with obvious adjustments for the rim shape. After adding all the details, I glue the plan to 1/4" plywood to also function as a template.
V Bracing Plan - Grand Auditorium.jpg
Holes are drilled and used to transfer locating marks to the front. I make lots of notes on the template as I work out details.
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

I use a go-bar clamping method: I built upper cabinet 4 ft above my bench surfaces. 4 ft fiberglas driveway markers are the "bars" and provide good clamping pressure and flexibility in clamping locations.
DS005a - Go-bar setup.jpg
(The photos are coming in sideways -not sure how to fix that)
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

The spruce front has been joined, The rosette installed, and the soundhole cut out. I use the StewMac rosette router jig with a Dremel.

The front plate has a 25' radius, so all the braces are sanded to match, and the radius dish supports the plate while gluing the braces.
The first brace is the Red Maple bridge plate:
DS005b - Gluing Red Maple bridge plate.jpg
The braces are Engelmann Spruce. The longitudinal braces are next. These are 5/16" thick. Notches are cut/carved to allow the braces to fit over the bridge plate.
DS006 - Gluing longitudinal braces.jpg
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

All of the braces, other than the longitudinal braces, are 1/4" thick Englemann Spruce.

The longitudinal braces are rough carved to allow for a lap joint for the (1/4") cross braces:
DS008 - Gluing cross brace joints.jpg
We can also glue the Red Maple string anchor on top of the bridge plate - between the longitudinal braces:
DS009 - Gluing Red Maple string anchor.jpg
Last edited by Mike Conner on Fri Jan 30, 2026 6:35 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

Now the tone bars can be glued:
DS010 - Gluing tone bars.jpg
Now the brace heights can be carved:
DS011a - Elevations carved.jpg
DS011b - Elevations carved.jpg
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

The braces are profiled -carving a bevel to the upper surfaces:
DS012a - Edges beveled.jpg
Then, everything gets sanded:
DS013b - Edges sanded.jpg
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

The neck braces are glued, then carved and sanded:
DS014 - Gluing neck braces.jpg
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

The complete front is boxed in a padded box with fine sharpie markers and some instructions. Family and loved ones can record special messages on the inside surface of the front. When it is returned to me, I'll take some photos, then proceed on with the build. In most cases, the recipient of the guitar had no idea I was building it, and everyone who signed it kept the secret!
DS015 - Ready to sign.jpg
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
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Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

The completed guitars really have sounded great. A full sound, with plenty of volume, overtones and sustain. No sign of the bridge tilt that I have seen so many times on X braced guitars.

I really hope other folks give the V bracing a try! Report your experiences back here on MIMF.
Mike Conner
Posts: 268
Joined: Wed Feb 08, 2012 8:12 pm
Location: Murphy NC
Contact:

Re: Detailed V Bracing Method

Post by Mike Conner »

Some details I missed:
- The Salvaged Sinker Sitka Spruce is from Alaskan Specialty Woods, the light curly version. This spruce is a really good value (about $34 w tax and shipping). Two completed guitars using this wood so far, a grand auditorium and a dreadnought, and they look and sound wonderful.
- The other V brace builds have been Engelmann Spruce and Walnut.
- My target thickness is about 0.113" before finishing. I thickness sand the plates to about 0.120" and expect to end up close to the goal after assembly and sanding for finish.
- The Red Maple bridge plate and string anchor are 0.100" thick.
- I use Titebond Original for all the wood joints.

Here's the Abalone and Walnut rosette around the 4" soundhole:
DS004 - Cutting out soundhole.jpg
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