Hi Matthew,
Although the bridges did stick pretty good I found they were close to the limit and over zealous tuning could take them past it. So I added some tiny bolts. I was looking at Michael Greenfield's pinless bridge design which uses a slot in the- middle- of the back and doesn't compromise the footprint as much, and I think I can modify it to have a semi traditional look and add string slots that will still allow the strings to slip out of the back. About 39 minutes into this video you can see his bridge design.
http://youtu.be/sAeXskZHC2o "Would you ever think of taking a commission?"
Occasionally I build instruments for people (or I might even have something on hand). I usually offer them "first refusal" - which is to say the person has the opportunity to buy it after it is done but is not obliged if they don't like it. But it has to be something I am interested in building (I build a number of different instruments) I try not to put too much skin in the game for either side - so no 2K back and side sets or $1000 tuners, etc. This also keeps my prices on the "low end". You can PM me if interested and we can discuss it further.
"I have been torn between wanting to build instruments, and feeling guilty not having time."
You shouldn't feel guilty - frustrated maybe, but not guilty. Since it is a hobby you should pursue it at a relaxed pace and not feel pressured by it
"On a side note, do you guys have a recommendation for a top for terz/size 1 guitars?. "
If you are stringing it with steel strings and traveling about with it I would use a semi-tough wood like spruce (some Engelmann is fairly dense and tough). If you are going to use nylon strings and not beat it up too much, western red cedar might be a good choice. I haven't used yellow cedar so I can't comment on that. Redwood can make a nice top but I think it splits along the grain easily, so might not be good for a traveller.
The camatillo rosewood should make a fine looking terz.
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