Bryan Bear wrote:I'm glad to see you jumping in! That will be a nice looking top! I don't know what you are using for back and sides but that would look great with walnut.
Bryan Bear wrote:I'm sure you just copied the wrong link but just in case, that link is for the OO not the OM. I only mention it in case you also downloaded the file to take to the printer.
Bryan Bear wrote:Can't wait to see this unfold.
Bryan Bear wrote:... but that would look great with walnut. ...
Beate Ritzert wrote:Bryan Bear wrote:... but that would look great with walnut. ...
Indeed. Or with something lighter.
A really cool top!
Randolph Rhett wrote:Congrats on jumping in. You won't regret starting with a traditional build. You have to learn the language before you write poetry. And you will probably build yourself one darn nice guitar.
Brian Evans wrote:In terms of tone, any kind of bell or drum like tone is what I listen for. If I hear a real dead, thuddy tone I feel that means there are internal flaws that haven't come out yet. Now, I work with 1" thick raw stock, not 200 thou thick. If it is ringing for you, I would say it is good to go. It's nice wood.
Brian Evans wrote:Back and side wood does not have to be quarter sawn. In fact, a lot of highly figured maple is flatsawn to bring out the curl or quilt. Personally, if I had some nice mahogany with some life to it, that's what I would use for a first instrument. It is so easy to work with and bends quite easily, at least for me. Your cedar is going to darken a lot when you put finish on it, so a darkish mahogany would compliment it nicely. Here is the guitar I made of deck board cedar and a billet of mahogany that I hollowed out.
Barry Daniels wrote:Did you candle the top joint before you glued it up?
Barry Daniels wrote:Yes, candling is holding the joint up to a bright light. I usually go outside and use the sun. Any slivers of light indicate a slight gap and the joint should be planed again.
Barry Daniels wrote:Regarding the cracked side, it can certainly be reglued and it may never cause a problem down the road. However, if you have more of the original board left over I would remove the bad part and redo it. My concern is the crack was probably always there since it was the end of the board. So there is a weak point there. Also, dirt and oxidation may have been present in the original crack which will minimize the strength of any glue you use to repair the crack.
Bryan Bear wrote:Royal-lac isn't non toxic per se. It is mixed with denatured alcohol so there's that. If you are not spraying you should be fine with just wearing gloves (if French polishing) and having adequate ventilation. Not really a big deal but with a mention.
Bryan Bear wrote:Did the crack in the top happen all on its own or did it get bent or bumped? Cedar can be splitty, if it happened from a mild trauma, I'd call snider gluing it and moving on. Racing and flying to the rim will give it more support. If it just happened sitting on the bench, I'd be more concerned.
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