MIMF

When you guys get sick of posts, please let me know! I really appreciate all the advice for beginners.
Id like to try my hand at fretboard inlay with triangular faux mop position markers. I have an older dremel but no router base for it. Are the cheap plastic bases good enough for a one or two guitar job purpose? My plan is to buy a pre slotted fingerboard, cut the inlay recesses with dremel, glue them in, bind the fingerboard, and then radius with a sanding block. Any advice or references to good info on inlay for beginners appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, you're doing things in the right order, using the small "down cut" bits that SM do is a good idea, the cutting edges are spiralled the other direction so they don't splinter the wood at the top, also for a first go I'd use ebony as it's easy to fill with ebony dust and super glue. I haven't used a plastic Dremel router base, I have the SM aluminium one which is good but still a bit fiddly.... I would (obviously) cut the inlay recesses first then radius the fretboard then glue-in the inlays and file/sand them to the curve of the FB... Be careful that the recesses are deep enough to accommodate the curve of the fretboard.

I think the plastic Dremel router bases are pretty weak.
I have tried several time (just experimenting) using one for inlay work but they are pretty slopppy.
I decided to make one for the process.

Check the archives for building a base for a dremel.

I made one following the recommendations and it works quite nicely.

Let's just say that the Dremel is pretty weak for anything besides automotive work like cutting off rusted mufflers. If I ever find one that runs true I'll be thrilled.
I tried the larger Proxxon but it's too slow so I ended up with an air pencil grinder that spins at 60,000 rpm. I bought and returned 3 of them to HF until I found one that's good.

David King wrote:I tried the larger Proxxon but it's too slow so I ended up with an air pencil grinder that spins at 60,000 rpm. I bought and returned 3 of them to HF until I found one that's good.

Did you make an adjustable jig or base to hold it vertically, or does it fit into one of the commercial bases?

Wouldn't I radius the board after the inlays are glued in so they get sounded down to a radius matching the fingerboard?

Peter, I made custom bases for all of them. For the Proxxon someone had given me a little focussing mechanism salvaged from something photographic. It looks a lot cooler than it works. A micrometer adjustment would have been more useful probably albeit slower to adjust.

Regarding sanding the fretboard to a radius after fitting the inlays... If you're doing it by hand it's going to take a long time and a lot of effort. I prefer to cut the recesses then plane the board to the approximate radius, sand it near enough, then glue-in the inlays, file them to the radius and then finally sand the whole lot to a finish.....

[quote="David King"]Let's just say that the Dremel is pretty weak for anything besides automotive work like cutting off rusted mufflers. If I ever find one that runs true I'll be thrilled.
quote]

I have had good success with my Dremel. It is a small machine, and can only be used for small jobs, but I use mine for inlay with the aluminum base from stewmac. The base is fiddly, but works well once you get it adjusted properly.

I also use the Dremel for routing acoustic bridge saddle slots.
I use it for dressing frets also with the flexible extension.