lacquer or enamel?

[Ryan Mazzocco]

I'm making a silk screen to print my logo on my headstocks. I was a little stumped as to what to use for my ink since most inks sold for screen printing are for fabric, not finished wood. A tutorial I found somewhere out there on the www said to use automotive paint, any color, and to used either lacquer or enamel based paint.
First, is this what I should use at all? or should I be trying to find a specific kind of ink?
Second, if it IS okay to use auto paint, which would be better? or does it matter? I'm wondering if the lacquer based would just melt into the existing lacquer on the headstock and just make a big mess?
Thanks

[Ryan Mazzocco]

okay, so here's where I'm at now...
I tested the process (on scrap, of course) and here's what happened. I figured if I was supposed to use enamel paint I could use the kind you get in the little bottles for model cars since it's a LOT cheaper than auto body paint. So I tried that and it was so thin that it just ran all over the place and smeared under the screen. but it cleaned up fine. So I went down to autozone and got a small bottle of touch up paint, and it worked MUCH better. Almost a perfectly clean print and with a few more practice runs I think I could get it. But that's where the problem starts. In a matter of less than a minute it dried in the screen and no amount of mineral spirits, warm water or scrubbing is getting it out.
So, a couple of possibilities... Maybe I could use lacquer thinner to clean it out or something else. What would get the autobody paint out of the screen without damaging the emulsion?
Or, since the Testors enamel paint seemed to clean up fine but was too thin and runny; it separates when left alone, so instead of mixing it up i could dump a good portion of the solvent out and maybe it would be a little thicker.
But I may have ruined my screen and have to make a new one.
Any thoughts?

[Mario Proulx]

It appears that consistency(IE; how thick the paint is) is what matters, so...

If lacquer is too thin, leave the bottle open a few minutes, stir it, leave it open a few more minutes, test, repeat until you reach the perfect consistency.

[Michael Lewis]

Always use the proper thinner for the finish you are using. Neither water nor mineral spirits will dissolve lacquer, you need lacquer thinner. When using automotive finishes ask the folks at the store where you get the finish as to what thinner is appropriate. Automotive finishes tend to be alkyd based, but ask to be sure of the proper thinner.

[Bob Orr]

How about using artist acrylic paint which is available in tubes and is a thick consistency Can be thinned and cleaned with water but dries waterproof. You can always shoot a quick coat of lacquer over the top to seal it. You may have to watch lacquer thinner as it may dissolve whatever your screen is made of!

Cheers, Bob

[Greg Robinson]

Ryan, can you adapt your silk screen design to a stencil? This may simplify your problem.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

I think I just got some bad advice from the start. I don't know why that tutorial I found suggested using a non screenprinting medium for screen printing. I've never tried screen printing before, so I really didn't know what I was doing.
I just did a quick web search and found a screen printing ink in the metallic gold color that I'm wanting that should work fine according to it's description. and it's a LOT cheaper by the ounce than the autobody paint.
yeah, okay... "use autobody paint on your guitar headstock." seems pretty stupid when you say it out loud doesn't it.

[Ryan Mazzocco]

I got my new ink in the mail and tried my first attempt at printing my logo on my headstock.
It's not perfect but I think I just need to practice a little more. it's still a little smudgy. (is that a word?)