MIMF

Right? Should work fine. Okay, when everyone around the world is doing this, remember you were there when it started.

I made one of those rolling marking gauges and use that on all 4 edges of the plank to be resawn. If I really want to be accurate I'll mark 2 lines .040" apart and keep the blade centered between them. I suppose if by kerf guide you mean an indexing pin in the bandsaw table a cm or two in front of the blade that rides in said slot then you could quickly and easily make the indexing slot with a 40 tooth Freud diablo 7-1/4" x.060" blade in your tablesaw with the depth set to > 1/8".

I don't care for little router cutters because of their tendency to wander in the grain and then snap off at the least opportune time. Rule of thumb is depth of cut = no more than 1/2 diameter of cutter.

A kerfing plane may be a good option as well.

You could use wing cutter router bits similar to those listed below from HF (although I might spring for an Amana bit for somewhat more money) to do your kerfing.
http://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-ti ... 68871.html

I generally use a 7 1/4 inch or 10 inch diablo blade and kerf as deeply as I can with the table saw. It allows me to use an underpowered bandsaw to do some resawing.

A 1/8 inch diameter straight bit won't last for doing long moderately deep kerfs in hard woods.

I never found kerfing a board all that helpful in resawing. A fresh, wide blade with low toothcount is extremely helpful. That, and going slow. I will do deep cuts on the table saw if I am resawing obnoxious figured maple. A 1/16" diameter router bit is going to make a mark on a board about as useful as a heavy pencil mark in guiding the blade.

Thanks. Great advice. I'm trying to get three veneers out of full 1" Pear, Unfortunately my bandsaw has only a 3-5/8" depth of cut. The stock is 5.5" wide, 2 pieces 30" and 22" billets. I do have a Japanese rip saw.

Perhaps I should make a kerfing plane. Thanks, again.

ps. I just used my LMI rosette cutter for the first time. Wow. I was surprised I was able sharpen the blade so well to 8000. It worked really well.

Find someone with a 10 inch table saw and a 10 inch diablo thin kerf blade and you should be able to get 4 pieces out of boards that are a full inch thick. I have a home made device that holds the board vertically against the fence and by cutting then flipping and cutting again I can cut slices from boards that wide.

I'd consider sending it out if the wood is valuable. You should be able to get 8 or so 1/16" sanded veneers via a good resaw bandsaw with a .032" thin kerf blade. Really anyone with a 12 or 14" bandsaw could help you out here.

Thanks. Great advice. I think the ol' Freud 63-150 slot cutter mounted up on the mighty PC 690 would work. It's 2" in dia. I do have a router speed controlled on my side bender. I have some other medium density boards that I can do.

If you don't have a solid router table, excellent way to really hurt yourself. Plus it's only going to cut 3/4" deep. If you really want to resaw without the right tools, go old-school and get a bow saw. That's what they used before they invented band saws. Maybe the part you aren't hearing is that kerfing the board doesn't really guide the resaw blade much at all, people do it because their tools don't have to power to cut full depth. If the blade is going to wander, it's going to wander. https://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/w ... frame-saw/

This vid might spark some imagination:

https://youtu.be/VNbq4WuJmRk