Simon Magennis wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 2:54 am
So the first very simple question is: slow cutting=blunt blade?
Given two blades, 1/2" x 4tpi and 3/8" x 10tpi, which blade would you use for which guitar making tasks?
Thanks.
Ripping 2" hardwood shouldn't be a problem with a half inch blade. Obviously ebony will cut slower than maple but it should feed into the saw without effort while cutting. If you notice any smoke from the cut, it's dull.
I had been using a 3 tpi 3/4" resaw blade that I've resharpened with a chainsaw file and was able to resaw 7 1/4" softwoods, maple and walnut with difficulty i.e. wandering uneven thicknesses that required 3/8" to safely end up with a 1/4" board. I bought a new Timberwolf brand bi-metal blade (3/4" 3 tpi) and that made it so I can make cuts 3/16" wide and do it easier. It wasn't expensive and has paid for itself with less waste. Better tracking and nice smooth cut.
Cutting the curves of a guitar shape outline, especially with a cutout or cutting any tight curves needs a smaller blade.
I'd say you need a minimum of two blades. If you want to slice rosette tiles it would be best to have another special fine tooth, thin kerf blade for that.