I have an old exterior door I have been splitting up for bracewood. The wood is well seasoned probably about 4o years old fending off hot humid summers and cold dry winters. Forgive me as I know I am about to use the wrong terminology and likely ramble as I explain myself. One of the boards has some squirrely grain that shows in the flatsawn dimension. It splits very nicely when I split perpendicular to the grain. In fact, I was able to take a brace width slice that was 34 inches long and split it end to end. When I split with the grain, the split wanders back and forth along the width of the would be brace. This runnout isn't very deep but it reverses back on itself in a more or less straight line along the brace. When viewed along the flatsawn edge it looks like a hot mess.
Here is a shot of the flatsawn face. I split in this dimension and then sawed as close as I could to the average line the runnout made and ran it through the thickness sander hoping to get a picture showing the grain:
I tried to get a picture of the worst part of the runnout looking at the quartered face, you can see that at worst it runs about 3/4 the thickness of the brace before it comes back:
Other than looking bad, and perhaps being a pain to carve the parabolic profile, do any of you see a reason not to use this for brace wood? This particular rail has a few guitars worth of bracing. . .
would you use this for bracewood?
- Bryan Bear
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would you use this for bracewood?
PMoMC
Take care of your feet and your feet will take care of you.
Take care of your feet and your feet will take care of you.
- Mark Swanson
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Re: would you use this for bracewood?
I always go by the way it splits. That tells me more about the real grain direction than anything, so I base my thinking on that.
- Mark Swanson, guitarist, MIMForum Staff
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Re: would you use this for bracewood?
About 5-6 years ago, a friend tipped me off to a great scrap/ends bin out back of a cabinet shop tucked away in our neighborhood. Most of my meager wood stash came from this bin. Maple, cherry, poplar, Doug fir.
Long story short: the dimensions for cabinets make nearly perfect rough/starting dimensions for lutherie. I found some flat sawn Doug fir panels with the same "squirrelly" figure that split exactly as you describe and show. Most of the bracing on the three unfinished tops sitting in my shop are of this wood. They "ping" nicely.
Long story short: the dimensions for cabinets make nearly perfect rough/starting dimensions for lutherie. I found some flat sawn Doug fir panels with the same "squirrelly" figure that split exactly as you describe and show. Most of the bracing on the three unfinished tops sitting in my shop are of this wood. They "ping" nicely.
-Ruining perfectly good wood, one day at a time.
- Bryan Bear
- Posts: 1376
- Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:05 pm
- Location: St. Louis, MO
Re: would you use this for bracewood?
Mark, since it splits nicely across the rings (IMHO, by far the more important dmension) and with the rings straight enoug to make braces, I'll take your comment to mean 'go for it.'
Jason, at least I know it works well for unfinished tops <g>.
It will be a while before I need to decide. If nobody chimes in with a reason not to before then, I'll use it.
Thanks guys!
Jason, at least I know it works well for unfinished tops <g>.
It will be a while before I need to decide. If nobody chimes in with a reason not to before then, I'll use it.
Thanks guys!
PMoMC
Take care of your feet and your feet will take care of you.
Take care of your feet and your feet will take care of you.
- Mark Swanson
- Posts: 1991
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:11 am
- Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan USA
- Contact:
Re: would you use this for bracewood?
Yes, I guess that is what I mean! I use the splitting as the final criteria as to whether I'll use it or not.
- Mark Swanson, guitarist, MIMForum Staff