MIMF

Matt: Having slept on it, I think you may be right. My apologies for being so dense. In the jig, it's all just downward force, and the rims are likely deforming slightly under the weight. But when strung up, the string tension helps the top resist the downward force and the deformation of the ribs--...

Thanks for the replies. I will chase down both suggestions and see what I see. However if the equation is correct, my measurement of the break angle would have to be 4 degrees lower in order to replicate the deflection I'm seeing. And I would think that any rim deformation unaccounted for would be t...

Barry:

This is a floating bridge design with a tailpiece.

I should have clarified that.

I decided to deflection-test one of my test mules, just to be sure I understand what's happening to the soundboard when downward force is applied to it. The top is braced and glued to the rims (prior to attaching the back). I tested the deflection under 10, 20, 30, and 40 lb of weight, applied direc...

Alan:

Are you saying that softwoods with the same density (weight?) have the same strength?

And the same qualities as tone wood?

By chance, I just saw an episode of Antiques Roadshow where they showed a Larson Brothers guitar with a steel rod running from the neckblock to tailblock. I believe they said it was 19 inches across, but not sure what that would have to do with the use of a central rod. Alan: Yes, the 5.5' radius wo...

I don't want to hijack the thread, but yes, my reasoning was to try and isolate the top and back from the effects of the pull of the strings, and the reason is that my top and back plates are domed to a 5.5' radius, which (as it turns out) makes the plates very stiff, to the point where I'm pretty s...

So to the original question, there's hollow carbon fiber tubes anchored to the waist on the one end (obviously, the sensible end) of the spectrum, and a big, honking, poplar beam (@ 8 oz in weight, as I recall) running from neck block to tail block on the other end (the comically over-built end) of ...

Mark, that last line of mine may read like sarcasm, but it's not.

I'm sure you're right, Mark. But the neck bolts onto the beam, so I thought I'd just go ahead and run it the whole length at the full dimension.

How much smaller would you feel comfortable with?

I couldn't tell you how it sounds because I haven't finished it yet, but here's a take, below.
The bar is poplar, 1.5" wide x 1.125" deep, so yes, it has some heft to it.

Going to have a floating bridge, and an off-set soundhole.

Thanks for all of the replies. I haven't been able to get back to this yet, but am hoping to work on it this weekend. I did check the fret seating with a magnifier, and they all look like they make solid contact with the fingerboard. Also it seems to be not quite as bad as it was originally, so Wadd...

Sounds like something I would do, Bob. It occurs to me that I'd be well-served by getting a fresh bottle of CA before doing any wicking. I did use CA when I fretted, but looks like an additional application is in order. Any thoughts on whether I should slacken or remove the strings or if I can just ...

It'll have to wait until after work tonight, but I'll check the relief (I was going for dead flat), and will check the frets for loosies. Will I need to slacken the strings first?

Patrick, your instruments are always so interesting.

Sorry, I really didn't give enough info, did I? It's a steel string guitar, maple neck, wenge fingerboard. I don't hear it quite as pronounced today as yesterday, and now I'm wondering if (since I'd just strung it up for the first time) it was/is just sort of settling in? Still notice it to some ext...

Clearly I don't know exactly how to describe this, but fretted notes on all strings seem to have less power and sustain in the 5th thru 10th fret range. Not a problem in 1st thru about 3rd position, and they seem to recover approaching the neck block. Which makes me think that the middle portion of ...

I've been laminating sides as a 3-ply: [inner wood (@0.05" thick)] + [1/64" baltic birch plywood (oriented 90 degrees from the inner and outer lams)] + [outer wood (@0.05" thick)] The finished sides end up a little under 1/8" but I plan on going thinner---just wasn't sure initial...

I've used it several times for both nuts and saddles, and it's great stuff. I've also tapped it a couple of times for 10-32 threads on adjustable bridges, and it's very hard. A lot cheaper than bone, if that matters. Cuts well, but will gum up your sandpaper in no time unless you hand sand.

Well I'll just keep at it then. Thanks