MIMF

I've done the same, then sprayed with nitro (or whatever) for protection against moisture.

Hi Eric My first acoustic bass was a real wierdo that I designed myself without much knowledge or experience. I learned a lot from it, and it sounds pretty good, but is an ergonomic failure as to ease of holding it while playing. It is most comfortable upright, but is too low off the ground (even pl...

I had the same problem with the bass I just finished, with the outer wrapping on the E string about 1/2" short of the nut, so had to add an extension to the tailpiece.

I soldered it - held for about 3 draws and broke again. I then soldered the crack and the opposite side too - same deal, so solder is obviously nowhere near strong enough to hold at this stress point. I'll try a new reed at some day. Eric, don't go to any trouble for this - I appreciate your input b...

Eric, I just decided to have a close look at the other side of the reed, and there is the crack! So I don't know if soldering that (without soldering the reed to the reed plate )would make it playable or not - I guess I'll find out.

Thanks Eric. I'd looked at Slidemeister, but it seems it's for chromatics, which has a repair section, but no diatonics allowed. :) The one I'm working on is a Hohner Special 20, key of A. The problem is the 5th draw reed. No sound initially - I cleaned up the edges of the reed and slot and re-cente...

I'm trying to repair a harmonica with a blown reed, and can't find any info on the specific problem this harp has. I can replace the reed (lots of YouTube stuff for that) but want to see if the reed can be repaired, rather than order a pack of 5 specific reeds from Hohner (only need one) for $15. Ye...

I've built a couple, one acoustic and one electric. Just build it the same as a fretted one, but don't puts frets in. I too think fake frets would just be a distraction and not helpful. I agree with Bob to just use side dots, placed at the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th, 12th etc fret positions. I didn't put an...

I put a JJB Prestige-330 with 20mm transducers into this archtop bass guitar. I have nothing similar pickup or guitar-wise to compare, but it seems to work OK into the bass amp input (adequate volume and tone control) with no external preamp. Online fora seem to say it's comparable to the K&K, a...

I was very disappointed in a polyurethane water based clear gloss finish I used several years ago that hardly changed the contrast on a maple top. It might be what you need for this.

BTW, this instrument's saga starts in this thread: https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?p=63769#p63769

This guitar continues and finishes here: https://www.mimf.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6654

Finally got this done. Had to correct a few miscalculations, but it came out OK. Doesn't sound any better than any other normal sized acoustic bass guitar I've heard, except a guitarron. It was a good learning experience, and now I have an acoustic bass that's easy to haul around (bought a cello gig...

I've never made a guitar without at least one mistake. You learn how to correct the mistake, so when you make the same mistake again you know how to fix it.

Hang in there.

The tailpiece is free floating on a screw into the tailblock. The attachment will be covered with an inlaid Mexican 5 peso coin - I've been using coins lately on headstocks, including Indian head pennies.

Finally got all the parts done, put it together and strung it up with some cheap cello strings I had around, prior to spraying. It didn't collapse, and it makes sound.

Yes, that's how he profiles the back longitudinally, but the transverse arch/radius across the lining (which is what I think we're talking about here :) ) remains flat. Anyway, I think that having the appropriate radius on the lining makes for a better joint - but out of ignorance I've just never do...

I have built according to the Cumpiano book and I seem to remember that the sides do get profiled for the back. Well, someone will have to point out to me where in the book that is covered - I have never seen it and can't find it. He does profile the sides longitudinally along the length of the gui...

So the question of profiling the sides/lining is being discussed. I've never done it, as I've followed Cumpiano's construction methods for the most part. He leaves them flat, and glues the top and back, radiused by the braces, to them with no profiling since he uses a flat sanding board to prepare t...

For me it depends on the wood used. For rosewood, osage orange and cocobolo I don't put any finish on it. I tape off the fret board near the headstock, and spray the neck upside down to avoid getting any finish on the fret board. For maple I spray the whole thing, and scrape the finish off the indiv...