MIMF

Randolph, I believe Barry is saying that he drills through the support block at the waist towards the neck block, not through the side itself--the support block being glued to the inside of the side, a hole directed from the support block towards the neck block would not penetrate the side, and the ...

Put my name in. Thanks.

Conventional wisdom may dictate otherwise, but a lightweight soundwell can be successful. The Brazilian Del Vecchio Dinamico uses a 1/8 inch thick bent plywood ring that sits on a longitudinal bar running from headblock to tailblock, with a ledge which supports the cone. These guitars have a beautif...

Santos Rosewood is not Brazilian Rosewood; it's another name for Pau Ferro which is not a true Rosewood (Dalbergia genus) and would not be listed under CITES.

I question whether or not aluminum would be desirable; it may be too easy to bend out of shape. I would go with plain steel rod. I prefer a fixed arm vibrato and made a fixed arm for my Bigsby from stainless rod, but it was a real fight to bend. With a fixed position arm, you can have the end right ...

Can't say I've done it, but I don't see any reason not to recycle where it may be appropriate. It really does depend on what went wrong with your #2 and the use of any wood you can salvage from it.

n my humble opinion those need to go into solid wood. I've built two 335 clones, one with a short internal block and a stop bar, one with a full length block and a B7.

Molly bolts? Wallboard anchors?--no, jusr kidding!

I bought a diaphragm vacuum pump from American Science and Surplus a number of years ago (they don't have them anymore) and made my own bag from heavy duty plastic sheet that can be bought at WalMart or a fabric store, glued the seams with vinyl cement and used a piece of threaded steel tubing (out ...

Chet's D'Angelico was not made as an electric, but was made to be electified. It had soundposts, not a block beneath the bridge and Chet mounted a Bigsby pickup near the fretboard and a P-90 near the bridge himself. One of the Gretsches he had made featured a fully carved (outside) maple top that wa...

All you can do with a zero fret is set it a fraction closer to the 1st fret. Chet Atkins had put a small peg just forward of the zero fret on his favorite '59 Country Gentleman for the G string to make it intonate a bit better, but I've not seen anything more elaborate to compensate each string with...

On the MIMF links page (accessible from the Home page) there is a link to Stephen Delft's article on compensated nuts: http://www.mimf.com/nutcomp/

I believe you mean "tentallones".

Congratulations Karl! I see I came in second place--probably the closest I've ever come or will come to winning.

Your picture posted, but I can't, for the life of me. figure out what it is you want us to see in it.

Humpblock fret markers would be normal in a pre-1957 model. The neck would have been fastened with a wood screw through the heel and it looks like someone removed the screw and replaced it with a bolt and nut through the head block. I think David is correct in his analysis of the truss rod problem.

I'm in.

Nothing wrong with building with a radius dish, but one is not absolutely necessary. One can trim braces to the correct radius of dome, and simply glue the top to uncontoured sides. Many guitars have been successfully made that way. The sides where the back is glued can be either contoured by trimmi...

The guitars I've made using a solera needed only a piece of wood across the soundhole to hold the top in place, narrow upright strips screwed on at the waist and a flat block at the butt; the solera was the same shape as the guitar. Screws partially driven into the periphery of the solera were used ...

Yes, that makes the most sense.

Nothing quite as annoying as a dissident saddle.