MIMF

You can use a plug cutter (or cut with a chisel) and inlay intact wood into the holes. You can place the holes in a place where hardware (pickups or controls) cover the defect. You can place inlays of interesting wood design, or pearl into the materials. If you use Hot hide glue, the glue lines will...

Heating the screws definitely helped loosen them. I put a little mineral oil on the screws after ward, and ran them in and out a little, which made them functional again. I suspect the heat causes the wood to warm, and it is a little loosens due to the change in the size of the hole as the wood enla...

As I see the problem you need to narrow the area where you neck pocket fits. It looks like you could chisel the area to a straight line, glue in a block of matching wood, and have a fairly good chance of hiding the repair. Hot hide glue does not color the wood, and takes finish quite well. It would ...

Thanks!

I am working on a piano which has a lot of rust on the screws.

To get the dampers off, I have to use a small vise grip to loosen the screws.

These are hardened steel screws set in wood.

Does anyone have a suggestion as far as placing oil on these or something else to help loosen these?

Check the archives for building a base for a dremel.

I made one following the recommendations and it works quite nicely.

So, are you talking about a little pumice in the pores, or some pumice in the surface finish, or the finish is fine, you just have a few swirls in the finish on the surface? My instinct is to use a dilute solution of the shellac on the surface. Don't use a very wet pad. Build up a little more on the...

If you have an already finished (completed in the past) guitar, and scratch the shellac finish, you can get out your solution of shellac, your pad, and pumice and work over the surface. Do a just a few session each day, and the pumice will quickly build and fill the scratch. Eventually you will have...

Depending on your situation, if the joint can be heated, the glue softens, then you can close the joint, and the glue night "grab" sufficiently for your purposes, and hold when allowed to cool.

One method for doing really fine work on a board with difficult grain is to use a toothed blade. The higher the angle, the more it is a scraper. You can take a standard type of blade and use your file to make the teeth. You can take a blade and tap it onto a coarse file, and it will create a pattern...

WFRET works very well.

Make sure your printer is printing to scale.

One of my old printers was perfect. One of my new printers was off scale a little. Measure to be sure you are getting correct printing.

They usually bend easily. If they crack, they are still usable.

It does look nice.

I hope the transition to steel strings works well.

It is difficult to any exact answers. I would mention that the biggest brace (in most steel string X-braced guitars) is the bridge. With the long bridge in your picture, and the inside braces you describe, you probably have a lot of support on that top. Of course, you might have such a stiff top tha...

I don't have any suggestions to add as far as repair. Chris obviously knows his Ukes!

In one photo, it looks like there is some binding on the back of the instrument, but not on the view of the heel.

Is there any binding?

Nice work! Nice pictures and presentation.

Is that a bat on the Headstock?

Well put!

Very nice work!

They look quite nice.

With time and light exposure, the osage will be close to the color of walnut.

It always is a guessing game how will appear in contrast to other woods around it.