MIMF

Another option, I suppose, is to get a long 1/8" drill bit, and drill the heel and neck block from the strap button hole, then added a screw. HAve the screw already in the neck block, apply hot hide, and snug it up with the screw. That said, I'd rather see you pin it from above. Nice project; w...

Hmmmm, yeah, the pins had to go in before the backs went on.... Pins --can-- go in from the top of the neck, as long as the fretboards aren't glued. Find the angle that will see the p9n intersect both the heel and the neck block for at least the bottom 3/4" or so. If the neck pocket fit is good...

Bonjour, Max...!

Before you try anything, give us more photos. Different angles, different lighting. Hold a straight edge to it to show how much it is puckered. At any rate, never hit CA with accelerator when doing a repair. Yes, it may work, but it may turn white. Depends on humidity and other factors, but CA is fa...

No sawdust and glue! That just highlights everything....

You have an excellent opportunity to learn to steam out dents. It's not hard, you can't do it 'wrong' on a raw top like this(as opposed to a completed instrument) and you'll learn an invaluable skill.

It will come out perfectly.

I've done a couple hundred necks that way, with zero issues....

Highly suspect you have a rotating neck block...

Are you certain that it is the wood being crushed, and not the neck block(and ribs) rotating?

I have been using 192 high clarity for bridges for 17 years. Nary a problem, despite my bridges being most likely the tiniest in the steel string guitar world... No amount of time at room temp is good. I've also given-up on freezing mixed glue. Freezer burn is real. It's not -that- hard, nor does it...

Use them. There are millions of Telecasters and their ilk with flatsawn maple necks doing just fine....

He preheats the wood, though in my experience, not enough to really make much difference Well, in my experience, and since that is my video, ;) the preheat makes all the difference.... Edit: Hadn't watched either of those videos in years. To clarify, I had been preheating the rim for a few minutes ...

One of my models has a 24" scale length and I recommend running mediums on it, because I, too, like the tone of heavier strings at lower tension. Turns out that mediums(13-56) on a 24" scale are nearly identical in tension to lights(12-53) on a 25.5" scale. I get the benefits of lower...

Here's a video I made a few years ago. Notice how quickly I bend... https://youtu.be/sUJbB0pa7Zs Also, are you placing the blanket above or below? If you're placing it above, that is a big part of your problem. Place it under the rib you're bending. To get heat on the top surface, you close-up the b...

As long as you taper the neck according to the two spacings, all's good.

When I built my tele-type last year, I did precisely that. Not quite 1-3/4" at the nut, but close...

On the other hand, all(though still a small number..) Lloyd Loar signed F-5 mandolins that I've handled and looked over sported flatsawn backs, sides, and necks....

but also because most people, like myself, are lazy, and it's a lot easier just to get the glasses (which do a superior job in correcting vision) I agree that our society has programmed us to seek instant gratification, as well as an instant, "easy" fix to all problems. The exercises --do...

I've used block to block dowels in mandolins, too. Works a treat....

But why is your end block so massive? That has got to be heavier than heavy....

I had read many professional articles stating that these courses and exercises don't work, and why they don't, but for the price, I had to try it. Bill Machrone also did them and saw big gains, and in fact was the person who told me to keep doing them. At the time, I was afraid to damaged my eyes by...

Anyone here remember my thread on the old forum on just this subject? That was nearly 10 years ago.... My vision had gone to hell and I discovered that I couldn't tolerate bifocals because of how it forced me to move my neck too much, so I was left with swapping between my regular glasses and my &qu...

This is an installation issue...

Waves should be installed in a snug(but not tight) hole, and shouldn't really be touching the bushing. You must drill the holes in steps, one size for the shaft, the other for the bushing.

Careful not to make the frets fit too "nicely". Wood moves with seasons, and what might be a nice fit in your shop could end up being too loose if the instrument lives in a dry environment, leading to frets that can pop-up, or at the very least, inconsistent fretted tone...