MIMF

Did you pumice fill the maple? I know that the pumice is the abrasive and that the "fill" is actually fine saw dust created by the sanding action, but my question is did you do that traditional pore fill step? I ask because I have been told by students very certain of themselves that it is...

You can make a tailpiece for purely cosmetic reasons by creating some kind of pinless bridge where rather than the string ends anchored in a recess at the bridge they are anchored on the tailpiece. But if you are talking having a float top with a tailpiece and floating bridge you are talking about a...

There is MUCH less information on the acoustic properties of archtops than flat tops. I can’t imagine how amazing it would be to have a reference like the Gore book to help define the acoustic properties of an archtop. It is way too easy to end up with a harsh sounding guitar with little acoustic pr...

Slicing a piece off the blank before you build is the only sure fire way to get a tight fitting grain matched cover. Even with a scroll saw, the kerf will probably be bigger than you are looking for. I don’t have a picture, but I’ve used a cutoff of the top rather than try to match the back wood. Of...

Matthew, I am not sure I can make much sense of what you are asking in your post. I gather you don’t make instruments for anyone but yourself. So why would there have to be a decision about whether you make more? If you feel like making them, make them. Don’t if you don’t. How could you know how you...

I get mine from here:

https://www.dyed-veneer.com/dyed_veneers.aspx

Yup, the site is literally called “dyed-veneers.com”.

I missed Chris’ post when he added it. Very helpful. One question though, THREe layers of the 2ply veneer AND a show layer? So seven actual layers of veneer?

If you don’t want facets you need to use solid linings.

I use my CNC extensively, but it is not an easy path. Necks are particularly hard to do. It is hard to model the transition of a full acoustic heel and the neck shaft. Most small CNC will not have the vertical clearance or travel to clear a heel. Necks are a very awkward shape to hold down and prope...

There is no reason it would need to pull a perfect vacuum just for clamping pressure. 10” is very different from 22” or 24”. In my experience vacuum bagging is very effective for providing clamping pressure. I use a bag for glueing braces, fingerboard, headstock veneers, etc. I would glue tops and b...

Love it! (Although, I admit I don't know what is ergonomic about it)

Peter Wilcox wrote:Crochet hooks are useful too, for reaching into enclosed electronics cavities and wire runs to fish out wires, and for reaching into a cervical os to retrieve lost IUD strings.

I really hope you are a retired doctor or something, and not some kind of weird medical fetishist.

I've heard of this "retirement" thing once offered to previous generations. Never actually met anyone who was offered one. Although the CEO of a company I briefly worked for had something called a "golden parachute". Is that the same?

I've never before heard of needing to match the neckblock to the neck wood. I am assuming there are some benefits, but I don't believe for a moment that it will cause you any trouble assuming both are from stable well seasoned stock.

Very nice! I've heard that olive will make a good fingerboard, if you can live with the non-standard coloring. Never seen a whole guitar made out of it. Is it very heavy? I can't tell from the photos, but I think I see the olive as a cap on some darker wood. Or is it solid olive? If solid olive, is ...

Yes! Thank you. Now I understand.

I’m sorry if I seem dense, but he said he glued the support block to the side first, and then with a long drill drills through the support block to the neck block. How can he start drilling from mid block OUT toward the neck? The only thing that makes sense is a through bore. But the backside of the...

I assumed that you were drilling through the head block where the neck would cover the hole in the rim. How do you disguise it when drilling through the waist?

So Barry do I understand that you first glue the support block and head block to the rims without holes to receive the CF rod? Then, from the outside of the body you drill a through hole in the head block all the way to the support block already glued to the inside of the waist? That sounds a little...

I was hoping that some with experience building with the neck block (or tail block) supporting buttresses can share their experiences. I've tried on a couple of guitars, but always have a problem with figuring out how to anchor the carbon fiber rods to the guitar side. Getting the angle from the top...