MIMF

Barry Daniels wrote: ↑Thu Apr 02, 2020 9:50 pm If you put shellac in the crack then the CA will not have any place to go.

If you don't want the CA to wick so far into the wood and discolor it, then you might consider using a thicker formulation of CA.

That's a fair point. I did use the thin CA.

In response to Ryan Mazzocco's question, HHG for structural crack repairs in the wood. Finish is it's own thing, and effects how light reflects. A particularly noticeable problem is discoloration along a crack. This is often due to dirt or some other substance getting into the wood fiber, especiall...

Hot hide glue and rub it in. A bit too late for that now. A serious point about cracks under finish: hide glue shows the least of any glue. CA can make a structural repair, but is more difficult to camouflage. The issue with the CA is it is nearly impossible to reverse it without seriously damaging...

Hey everyone. So right now I've got a very interesting little instrument on the bench. It's a 1926 Martin T-18 Tiple. Most of the tuners are in pretty good shape and function quite well. They are arranged 5 on a plate, slotted headstock style. 2 of the individual tuners are missing the gear and the ...

Nice! These 2 instruments look like they must be cousins

Got the Email back from Godin. Just in case anyone else wanted to know...

"Hi Ryan,

Seagull guitars have a water based polyurethane finish.

Regards,

Michel Bélanger
support clients/customer service
Godin Guitars"

So there you have it.

Hey gang. So this time I have a Seagull S6 original on the bench. First of all, yes I know they aren't worth that much. We sell them at our store so I know what they're worth. But the customer really loves his guitar and is willing to pay the price I quoted. So here we go.... so, here's what happene...

And finally the (almost) finished product... I used nitro with tobacco tint. Had to go pretty dark to get it to match up. But I think that actually made it easier. Then I scraped the bindings clean leaving a nice bright white which I aged up a little by spraying a bit of amber tinted lacquer to matc...

Okay, I've been away from this project for a while. finally got back at it and it's about finished up so I thought I'd post and update a little bit. RK93.jpg I got the cleats all put in. now it's time for the splint. I used a piece of Mahogany binding and bent it to fit the side. RK94.jpg then I slo...

Everyone looks at the same thing and sees something different. I look and knowing what caused it I see a badly processed piece of wood with a defect, and I'd reject it. I accept all sorts of things that happen naturally, spalting, grain, colour, but that stain just doesn't appeal to me. I do feel b...

First off, I want to make sure that's I'm not coming across as saying anything negative about the guys at Hibdon. They are super guys that produce a quality product at great prices with superior customer service. I have been in contact with them and they have confirmed that the marks are from the st...

It is interesting that it doesn't show up in the bookmatch. They have about 5 sets up on their website with the same dark spots in the sapwood (probably from the same board) but they mostly show on both halves of the sets. I'm sorry, I don't have any advice, I'm just thinking out loud. Yes, that's ...

This guitar is a commission build. The back and side set was specifically picked out by the customer and then I purchased it. I believed the dark spots in the sap wood near the top and bottom of the back pieces were just left over from the stacking/stickering process and were only surface deep. set....

Hey Andrew. First off, what has been the feedback from your customers? What do they tend to prefer?

Doing good. Are you using clamps to prevent the cleats from spreading the crack open? I'm not. I was going to, but i found that it wasn't spreading and it's more stuff to get in my way when its tight quarters already. I hope I dont regret it, but so far it seems to be working for me. I will say, th...

And the work continues... That's 8 down, 4 to go. It's going pretty well. I found that I had to adjust the angle on the cleats a bit more. It slowed the work down; fit, modify, fit, modify, fit, glue, clamp, rinse, repeat... but I really started to get into a groove by the end of the day. I should h...

And now the repair begins.... After new tooling, many attempts at testing and dry fitting the actual repair begins.... RK6.jpg RK7.jpg RK8.jpg RK9.jpg RK91.jpg I'll continue to work my way around the body until I have a cleat every 2 to 3 inches around the body, then I'll start figuring out how to d...

Well, I'm back at it. I got a chance to do some work on this guitar. I also decided to start over and make my cleats over again because I didn't like the shape of the the first ones I made. But First here are a few pictures to show exactly what I'm dealing with here: RK1.jpg RK2.jpg RK3.jpg RK4.jpg ...

Update: Not much to update really, but I'm going on vacation for the next week and wanted to mention what's been going on. I got 3 tuner clamps put together and made up a whole heap of cleats once I got the angle figured out. Next step is to break the old repair apart, clean it out and begin the new...

As expected... very slowly lol it's one of those "back burner" kind of jobs. I test fit a few pieces but haven't found the that sweet spot of the perfect angle quite yet. I think it's going to take a couple tries anyway because about halfway to the waist the kerfing changes to a bit larger...