MIMF

Perhaps the "keystone" part is simply a grip. I can see the advantage to having a grip of some sort to prevent the device from spinning and position the device whilst tightening the nut.

Nice job on the fretboard; I really like those "Neo-Classic" markers!

Gordon, although commonly referred to as "tremelo" these devices are, in fact, vibratos. My preference is for the Bigsby, as I prefer the subtle, judicious use of vibrato since I grew up listening to Chet.

Interesting. But do you really need 6 screws to hold the neck on, or did you fashion some sort of neck angle adjustment system? I'm kind of missing some sort of inlay where the soundhole should be. Nice job, though.

Those were put in Baldwin-era Gretsches, and as you have concluded, more complicated than is necessary.

I agree with Barry. You will probably be happier in the long run if you get this as right as you can from the very start.

What Brian said: Laminating vs. carving does not dictate which style of arching at the cutaway. Personally, for aesthetic reasons I prefer the symmetrical arch with the cutaway rather than carving (or otherwise shaping) what looks to me like an unsightly "bubble" over the cutaway. Of cours...

I have an old Gibson C-1 with an ebony nut/string spacer and zero fret. If you like the look of the black nut, perhaps using it as a string spacer nut with zero fret would give the look you desire on future construction.

Walnut also makes a nice neck, as does cherry.

Yes to walnut; your board should be fine.

Probably not.

Genuine shellac sticks are available from Constantines or from shellac.net, should you decide to use them. Probably easier to buy them than try to make them.

Bob, a centrifugal starter switch will click on startup and at shutdown; those clicks you hear suggest the switch is opening and closing, but not whether or not the contacts are actually conveying the current to the coil or that the capacitor is good. It could be dirty or corroded contacts, or the c...

D.J., Killy Nonis, a UK luthier uses "engravers wax" on his Selmer-style guitars. I've searched for same, and came up with a lacquer stick (I haven't used it) that gunmakers use to fill engraving on their work. Apparently the stick can be rubbed into the engraving and then cleaned from the...

I'm embarassed to admit I don't recall the thickness of the veneer. I used EI Rosewood veneer, probably 1/32 inch thick on the outside, African mahogany on the inside, probably also 1/32 and a core of poplar crossbanding veneer 1/32 thick, as best as I can recall. I checked the discussion in the old...

Beate, I think you're on the right track re-forming the top. I think that you could use a spacer of the correct height to fit below the bridge position and a sturdy piece of plywood, clamp that firmly to the back as you use heat and moisture to "lift" the top at the bridge (you could even ...

Charlie, re: your kerfed bentside liner, how can you be sure that your hitch pins won't be driven into a kerf rather than the solid part of the liner, thus being subject to pulling out from the tension of the strings?

Me, too.

The H. S. Wake 'cello plans include plans for a collapsible travel 'cello, which might be adaptable to your use by simply adding to it a transducer. I can't locate my copy at the moment, so I can't comment on the utility of the plans, but you may want to look them up.

Are you looking to replicate the Fender specs exactly, or are you seeking the ideal location for a particular sound? If the latter, it might be worth it for you to make up a test instrument on which you can move your desired pickup to various positions and see where it works best for you.