MIMF

Here is a shot from the back of the oak steel string guitar.

This is the nylon string from the side. It seems to have a deeper tap tone than the steel string. I think this one is going to have a nice voice.

Last weekend I was able to glue in position markers on the steel string guitar,glue in side markers on both guitars, put a radius of 16" on the steel string guitar, finish sand, and spray 7 coats of Mohawk vinyl sealer, and 5 coats of Mohawk gloss instrument lacquer on both the travel guitars, ...

Here is a shot of the peghead on the nylon string travel guitar.

I double checked the fretboards for angle and string action, making sure the action will be right. I then glued on the two fretboards.

I decided not to bind the nylon string neck. Using a fret mitre box, I cut fret slots in the two fretboards.

For the last couple of weeks I have been working on a dulcimer for my boss of 38 years. (who is retiring in two weeks) I also had two board meetings, and sat on a scholarship committee, so I havent posted any updates. In between everything, I did get some work done on my challenge projects. I am hap...

Hi Patrick: welcome to the forum. I also started with Kinkade's book, and my first build was the OM from the free plans included in the book. And it was a "'woodworking project", but I love it and play it all the time. I broke the first set of mahogany sides and replaced them with some wal...

I like this a lot! Very nice design. What kind of finish are you going to use?

It's looking very nice Bryan. I like variation in the top plate. From the picture the top looks like it has some red in it, this will look great with the walnut. I like the proportions as well. The lower bout being larger should add to the tone. I think the back looks great. I like the way the grain...

Here is a shot of the uke with the neck set in place, and the fretboard taped on.

I am using a rosewood fretboard blank that was a "reject" from Fender. My local hardwood dealer sells them for 5 for $20.00. I used a scrap piece of maple to bind the fretboard.

Here is a shot of the neck fit from the back.

Here is a shot of the tenon jig. I set the neck angle with blocks, and clamp it in place, then I set the dovetail form to the proper fit. I use a straight bit first, and slowly lower the depth until I reach the final depth. I then use the dovetail bit to finish off the route. I alwasy leave the teno...

I routed the dovetail tenon in my tenon jig.

I have now glued up the neck scarf joint and the heel.

Here I have cut and prepared the scarf joint for the neck.

I routed the dovetail mortise in the plywood jig.

I cut binging for the steel string fretboard from some scrap maple I had. I think I will not put binding on the nylon fretboard (I have to decide that this weekend). Here is a shot of the steel string travel guitar with the neck in place, and the fretboard taped on.

My local hardwood dealer gets fretboard "rejects" from Fender, and sells them, 5 for $20.00. I use them to make all sorts of things, bridges, trim, and in this case I found three that had enough "good" area to use for these fretboards.