MIMF

I run a 60 tooth Freud Diablo 7-1/4" blade in my tablesaw...and routinely mill up binding and fine purfling lines with a fresh zero clearance insert and a good feather board system.

My frame saws for solo resawing all had pull blade orientation...a slightly touched up 3 tpi x 1/2" band saw blade worked just fine for resaw, but having two people makes it a lot easier to stay on track.

Shelf life has more to do with the storage container than the lacquer - steel cans rust and leak when stored on concrete, and that's where most paint and varnish ends up...on a concrete slab in someone's basement or a paint locker in a factory. Same here with McFadden's and other standard instrument...

A curved sole shave is needed for tighter turns in the heel if insistent on use of a shave. The Lee Valley Low Angle Shave is convertible to either flat sole or moderate radius, while the Lie-Nielsen Preston-style curved sole shave or the Lee Valley knock-off of that shave will handle a little tight...

There will be settling over WB glue joints with both Enduro-Var and HP IME - the least amount on hot hide, more on Titebond and fish. Gone by the third coat IME with both. John Greven is using epoxy under EV, and it works under HP - def saves a few coats versus working from raw wood.

No sanding between #1 and #2...there's probably a sweet spot for recoat without sanding, and it's likely longer than I waited (20 mins). No attachment or witness line issues, but more texture than I expected to see from the 1.0 mm needle/air cap set. May have been the lack of thinning - I wanted to ...

Progressives work pretty well for me, but the good Zeiss high index ones with good antiglare and scratch resistant coatings are not cheap...think I paid about $450 for last pair with Flexon frames (I am tough on frames) and my sunglasses ($$$ RayBan plastic frames...power of monopoly) were about $10...

Just finished a non-guitar project with High Performance - I liked it. Sanded and buffed three semi-gloss coats over a single coat of West 105/206 on curly maple. Gunned well and attachment to epoxy was quite good...sanded 48 hours after last coat and aggressively buffed to a semi-gloss finish. Afte...

More power is always better, but for flush trimming, the loads are not nearly as high as large panel raising bits, so I believe you can get by with a 2-1/4 hp class router for the Whiteside bits. I agree that a fixed base router is the better choice for a table, and if precision depth control from a...

Enduro-Var is not hard to sand or buff; not as soft as something like lacquer-based sanding sealer, but certainly not as tough as some polyesters. Fresh, quality abrasives, and change the paper when dry sanding...does not load if the finish has a few hours to cure.

Sticky...sloppy is a manufacturing problem or excessive wear.

Common issue...easy fix. Loosen the two screws on the offending tuner and recenter in bushing, then retighten. Wavs have far less tolerance than Grovers for misalignment with bushing, so sometimes it takes some effort on installation to get it right. The benefit is that over time, the tuners do not ...

Nitro and 2-pak urethanes, as well as WB urethanes.

A turbine system with a top-grade gun will run about the cost of a decent compressor and regulator/filter/dryer, is portable, and extends spraying by at least +10% RH and -10 degrees F. I have both a large compressor with HVLP conversion guns (Iwata and SATA), and Fuji turbine system with several ge...

Cellulose Nitrate: Acetone, acetone and methylene chloride plastics glues (Duco, Weld-On, etc.), CA, acetone/Titebond. With acetone or acetone-based glues, expect a couple days for the excess solvent to migrate out of the cellulose nitrate...sand or scrape too soon and the binding or pulling will co...

Since I've switched to Jescar wires, no more issues with inconsistent sized tangs and slot/fret misfits. I assemble neck and body after finishing, then do final level/prep/fretting after that. Even on T-bar necks, there's no drama and no issues with back-bow, etc. Used to use Mario's approach to fre...

I tried the LMI stuff and found it worked well, but between shelf life limitations, ease of use (needs to be in a squeeze tube for better control), and cost, it was cheaper and easier to use CA (BSI Thin and Medium) on unfinished stuff and CA low odor (BSI Gold) on lacquer-finished binding repairs p...

Works for ivoroid or other Cellulose nitrate binding, but does not work well for ABS/PVC alloys like Bolteron. Also note that Duco - often suggested for plastic binding - is just gelled acetone, so useful only on celluloid and pure ABS.

The second instrument's burst is modeled on a vintage instrument owned by the buyer's father. I can see what else I have. These were sprayed with the predecessor to the Fuji T-70/T-75 turbine guns, using a Turbinaire 3-stage turbine. The T-75 is a major improvement over that gun, with the ability to...

There's no real functional difference between the latest two generations of turbine guns and good conversion guns...I have Iwata and SATA conversion guns and seldom bring them out. That said, even with older bleeder turbines, it's a technique versus tools approach...I generally have to intentionally...