MIMF

If you want to save room in the shop, you could just cut the mortise and tenon with a table saw. That is how I do it. Just like in the Cumpiano book.

There is a method where you use a router and straight bit, but it isn't much better that a semi-set up jointer (I have an old craftsman also and I'd bet a dollar it is the same model!). I still use the jointer and when done see places where light passes through a little bit. To clean up, I sand on a...

What a cool story!

I remember that it had many flaws, but I was very proud of it anyway. The sense of achievement was strong, and kicked off an appetite for this addiction. I took it to work (I work in a large design engineering dept) and all of my co-workers were amazed. It was a blast. My confidence was so high, for...

IMO, I'm not sure I've found a correlation between $$ and sound. The higher the cosmetics and appearance (and maybe rarity) of the wood, the higher the price. But not the tone. Just buy structurally correct wood, well quartered, with the least run-out and save the $$ for something else. If you are a...

I have built one from Doolin's plans. I like it, use it, but I'm not sure I'd build it again. It takes up a lot of room in my shop and I think there are better jigs that might be a little simpler to build and use. I like the idea of a dedicated belt sander. The Doolin jig is a little tricky to use, ...

You should be able to level down the runs (I use a razor blade) and block sand the next day after spraying assuming normal drying conditions and no complications. It's hard to guarantee compatibility between lacquer brands, but typically, most of the time, it is not a problem to go over one with the...

What Trevor said - wait. I had a stiff neck once that would not
move even with cranking on the 2-way rod. It took about 5 months to get
any relief at all. String tension will work in your favor IF YOU ARE PATIENT.

I have the buffing arbor from stewmac, the one similar to the shop fox. It works fine for me.
I don't buff more than 2 or 3 guitars a year so for my needs it is plenty.

Good job!

No need to worry. Ebony repairs like this can be nearly invisible. Super glue it back on and then fill the crack with similar colored ebony dust mixed with glue.

A jury would laugh them out of court. They do not own the term engineer, only the practice.

Come on. A title and a practice are two different things.
A little common sense tells us a Customer Relations Engineer or similar is not an
Engineer.

Try wiping with a piece of dry burlap. Burlap has the grip to remove semi-dry filler.

One look at that headstock and man do the memories come back. Back in Jr High, there was a store near my house where several Pan guitars hung. I remember several looked like Gibson SGs. I had no means, so I just did a lot of looking.

I've built... and I've bought. Can't picture a world without both!

If you need gap filling, epoxy is the best. You do need to remove all the old glue.

You would probably be fine.. but why risk it? Fixing finish problems is less fun.

I'd recommend checking the types of paints and the solvents in the mix. Sounds like the solvent of the clear is chemically hotter than the base. A hotter solvent can act like a stripper to another. One time, I was painting a new home I was having built and sprayed flat wall paint on the sheetrock. T...