Search found 161 matches

by Chris Reed
Tue Jan 02, 2018 6:43 pm
Forum: Glues and Finishes
Topic: Issue with hot hide blue - very "runny."
Replies: 4
Views: 3167

Re: Issue with h.h.g. - very "runny."

Salt is used to slow down the gelling time, so I suppose that might make the glue runnier.

You could always buy a bottle of spring water (not mineral water) from the supermarket and use that to see if it makes a difference.
by Chris Reed
Fri Dec 29, 2017 1:53 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: Resonator Ukes
Replies: 6
Views: 6893

Re: Resonator Ukes

Greg Steil wrote:I'm gonna go for as light as I can build it.
Conventional wisdom says the opposite - you don't want the cone to flex while you're playing or it will distort.

This was my skeleton (pear-shaped body), ready for cladding.
2016-01-15 13.50.19.jpg
by Chris Reed
Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:27 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: Resonator Ukes
Replies: 6
Views: 6893

Re: Resonator Ukes

Plywood is a common choice. The important thing is to get the sound well and body really solid (and of course, different designs depending on what type of cone you are using).

I've only built one, and it sounds pretty good but weighs enough that I need a strap to play it standing.
by Chris Reed
Sat Nov 04, 2017 6:15 pm
Forum: Flat-Top Acoustic Guitars and Bass Guitars
Topic: Reject wood guitar? Prototype?
Replies: 28
Views: 24683

Re: Reject wood guitar? Prototype?

I recycled the body of a 70s Japanese dreadnaught into a pear-shaped tenor guitar with a new top made of yew. That turned out fine.
by Chris Reed
Thu Apr 20, 2017 11:46 am
Forum: Glues and Finishes
Topic: French Polish
Replies: 9
Views: 5317

Re: French Polish

Bill Sylvester wrote:Don't know if waxed/ dewaxed, timeframe is one day
I'd baby it for a week, when it should be tough enough to cope with handling. Probably a month until it's "fully" cured. But it gets tougher thereafter, albeit slowly. After 50 years it should even be insoluble in alcohol.
by Chris Reed
Wed Apr 05, 2017 1:18 pm
Forum: Wind, Percussion, and Miscellaneous and Experimental Instruments
Topic: stainless steel as a material for a music box comb?
Replies: 6
Views: 11397

Re: stainless steel as a material for a music box comb?

I suspect your only course is to find a piece of stainless steel about the size of one tooth and twang it, to hear how it sounds. If it's not musical, would bronze be worth a try? Statues survive outside, though I'm sure they're not the same bronze as sheet material. Hope you find something, as an o...
by Chris Reed
Sat Apr 01, 2017 1:53 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: Uke neck angle
Replies: 2
Views: 4001

Re: Uke neck angle

No neck angle for most of my builds. 2mm above the fret crown is rather low for nylon strings, as if you dig in at all you'll get buzz/rattle of strings on frets. For a beginner I'd give them 3mm, droppable to 2.5mm once they become a little more delicate in their playing. This gives you fretboard h...
by Chris Reed
Fri Mar 31, 2017 6:29 am
Forum: Wood and Materials Q&A
Topic: Rosewood Guitar Set Rookie Question
Replies: 16
Views: 14838

Re: Rosewood Guitar Set Rookie Question

The wave in the grain is clearly where it wants to move, so if you can flatten it then I'd join the opposite edges. The unstable part would then be glued to the rims, which should resist movement once it's thicknessed. Also, the wave looks very like the waist of a guitar, so you could design the bod...
by Chris Reed
Sat Mar 25, 2017 8:59 am
Forum: Solid-Body and Chambered or Semi-Solid Electric Guitars and Bass Guitars
Topic: maddening string rattle
Replies: 4
Views: 3572

Re: maddening string rattle

Have you checked the top of the saddle? If it has a flat spot or dent, that might be the cause.
by Chris Reed
Fri Mar 10, 2017 11:25 am
Forum: String Instrument Repair: Practical and Political Issues
Topic: Heating up a bass neck
Replies: 18
Views: 17844

Re: Heating up a bass neck

I'd use a light coloured dry cloth I think. Light coloured so that it will show scorch marks before the fingerboard does.
by Chris Reed
Mon Dec 26, 2016 12:23 pm
Forum: Other Stringed Instruments
Topic: Clavicytherium design
Replies: 5
Views: 5702

Re: Clavicytherium design

Too many questions! You need to do a lot more research, so that you have at least a basic understanding of what you are trying to build. Your questions suggest you haven't got there yet. This means that answers won't be understandable to you, or might even mislead you. Two things to get you started:...
by Chris Reed
Wed Dec 21, 2016 8:20 am
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: neck and setup specs for concert uke
Replies: 6
Views: 5936

Re: neck and setup specs for concert uke

My numbers are like Ron's. I use flat fretboards. The string spacing on a uke is usually 8.5-9 mm, the same as a classical guitar. You can build a neck as wide as you like, but most players find this spacing comfortable. The string spacing doesn't have to match the neck width, so you could build a w...
by Chris Reed
Sun Dec 11, 2016 7:37 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: ukulele neck/body join
Replies: 6
Views: 6149

Re: ukulele neck/body join

I've made ukes with all these (except dowels). Spanish heel is probably my favourite because, for me, I get the neatest neck to body join and can build freehand rather than using a mould. A flat top is easiest, though a slight dome is also common. I think an aggressively curved back gives better vol...
by Chris Reed
Mon Dec 05, 2016 3:05 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: ukulele neck/body join
Replies: 6
Views: 6149

Re: ukulele neck/body join

Bolt on works fine, and I can just about manipulate a hex key through the sound hole. But if you have a source of child labour ...
by Chris Reed
Tue Nov 29, 2016 1:55 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: Soprano uke, top and back thickness OPTIMUM Values
Replies: 3
Views: 4055

Re: Soprano uke, top and back thickness OPTIMUM Values

Another point, you need to trade off between top thickness and bracing. This pic is of a Tasmanian Blackwood top which was amazingly stiff - it's around 1.5 mm and I could have gone thinner. Instead I'm using minimal bracing and bridge patch (this design is narrow bodied with a thin waist, so the to...
by Chris Reed
Tue Nov 29, 2016 12:16 pm
Forum: String Instrument Repair: Practical and Political Issues
Topic: A Basic Piano Repair
Replies: 7
Views: 6571

Re: A Basic Piano Repair

Barry Daniels wrote:I would wrap the shaft with thread which will also help to clamp the break during gluing.
I've seen that inside pianos. I think hide glue is used, and the thread is also painted with glue.
by Chris Reed
Tue Nov 29, 2016 9:39 am
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: Soprano uke, top and back thickness OPTIMUM Values
Replies: 3
Views: 4055

Re: Soprano uke, top and back thickness OPTIMUM Values

There are no optimum values because each piece of wood is different, even consecutive slices from the same billet. So optimum thickness is individual for each instrument. For spruce (which I find too brash sounding for a soprano) I thickness the top to around 2.2 mm and work down from there, probabl...
by Chris Reed
Wed Oct 05, 2016 1:08 pm
Forum: Glues and Finishes
Topic: Sap seeping through nitro finish... anything I can do?
Replies: 8
Views: 4375

Re: Sap seeping through nitro finish... anything I can do?

For Tru Oil over sappy wood I'd definitely use shellac first. Tru Oil can be reluctant to dry on oily woods, I'd guess resin would be similar.
by Chris Reed
Tue Oct 04, 2016 6:21 pm
Forum: Ukuleles
Topic: Warped Ukulele Body
Replies: 4
Views: 4021

Re: Warped Ukulele Body

Two suggestions:

1. For the future, don't cut the sound port before the top is on. Lock in the geometry, then do the extra stuff.

2. For this uke, carry on assuming the top is correct - ignore the directions in which back and sides go. That way your final instrument will be playable.
by Chris Reed
Sun Sep 25, 2016 9:34 am
Forum: Glues and Finishes
Topic: Glue for celluloid?
Replies: 17
Views: 10471

Re: Glue for celluloid?

Titebond doesn't work for me. I use CA, but there is a risk of distorting the celluloid.