MIMF

i have an Ariou rasp, but truth be told i prefer my Nicholson #49. much more aggressive and the surface it leaves is about the same. not like i'm jumping to 220 paper after shaping a surface with any rasp

that's cool! thanks for sharing guys.

Ooooo! Please post a picture of the tailpiece anchor-part! I want to see this rare piece of hardware.

totally got it - i was going to ask if the threaded portion stuck down and registered with the top - guess it does.
i like it - may steal it if that's ok

Barry - i think i get it. I assume this is mostly up in between frets around 17, 18 or so? Bryan - this is so i can easily pull the top off and change thickness, bracing, SH size, whatever. What I'm trying to do now is avoid spending all my time fussing with the bridge attachment and get some work d...

Barry, yep, that is the beginning of R&D. And there is optimization of the angle. I'm at a sharper angle than the free-body diagram suggests - which makes the stressed part of the material a sharp little wedge, BUT it also makes lifting of the back edge less likely - so i would need to find a balanc...

yep - very similar - thanks for pointing me to that Clay.
funny, mine comes up if you search google images for "covered v headstock joint"

and i enjoy untangling strings

Thanks for looking guys. Barry, the big cap screws on the fingerboard go into threaded inserts in the heel-block. The small screws near the end of the FB are just wood screws going into the top/brace. They are there to keep the extension from buzzing. I would be interested to see how you attach to t...

Really, nobody cares about the bridge joint?
The bridge is slammed down tight on the top purely by string tension.
well ... OK

And this is what it looks like fully carved and finished.

Seems the interest is mainly in the headstock joint. I've been doing that headstock joint for at least 7 years, tho my building has really slowed down in the past 5 years so its only on a half-dozen guitars. It is a 3-sided pyramid tenon in a matching mortise. It's basically what i though Martin did...

Hey y'all, I've made a quick tear-down/build-up guitar so I can quickly take it apart, make changes, then put it back together. The neck is all bolt-on -nothing terribly new there. The headstock is my standard headstock joint, which I've always wondered if I could leave un-glued. Sure can. String te...

Barry, I was think the same thing. With all that was done to that guitar back in `76 (43 year ago!), and it was still together today. Someone did a fine job. Wonder who?
Anyhow, you are doing a fine job as well, and thanks for sharing.

Because the copper rod is encased in wood (an insulator) it likely forces the entire rod to quickly come to the same temperature. plus, Proof's-in-the-puddin', right, and its working for you so ... it works. Your practice of dripping water into the hole seems like a key feature to speeding up the pr...

By the way, I never really looked closely at the heat-stick things, and I assumed they were heat pipes . But I doubt that they are available as small as 1/8" - actually i think they are. If you are not familiar with this technology it is amazing . Far, FAR, better heat conduction that just a copper ...

Here I am as Barry's muse - playing air-guitar, because i can't play a real one.

that is beautiful rosewood!! Perfect.

I intentionally used a super-bright piece of maple to emphasize the color tone difference between the two. The cherry (at least this piece) has a distinctly green hue making the sapwood a khaki/olive tone. Maple is much more yellow/golden hue, so the two do not go together - to my eye at least. I'd ...

Bryan, here is a picture of some cherry with sapwood I have scraped a section clean. There is actually very little difference due to scraping - not sure if the oxidation is deep or if it's just not changed color much. I do not have much experience with cherry ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Next to the cherry is a gleami...