MIMF

Hi John, I've traced the outline of the Gibson A Pickguard onto 1/4" graph paper which is probably a much more accurate way to give you dimensions. I'll attach it here as a J-peg. You can download the PDF of this at this google drive link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=19DjwFzsqBtxD2LX7CaUz5Pqrun...

I just did the very thing on the Harmony I spoke of in the earlier post. In that case, it was a piece of spruce about 1 1/2" X 6 1/2". After leaving the wet paper towel on overnight, a bent, sharpened knife easily slid underneath the piece and separated it with little trouble. The only tough spot wa...

Hi John, Let me take a look at it tomorrow and get some measurements. And yes, I'd be interested in a template for the bridge. Thanks!

I am currently doing a similar process on a Harmony H-165. In this case, someone modified the guitar to have a "through the top" bridge rather than the original "through the bridge only" arrangement Harmony used on these guitars. In the process of drilling pin holes, they damaged the re-enforcement ...

Hi John,

I'm not sure exactly how to measure the 1/2 moon section (not exactly sure where it starts and ends!), but I'd be glad to trace the entire pick guard while it's off and accessible if that would help. Let me know.

Success! After another slow heating with the soldering iron on the frets, I was able to get the pickguard to come lose. A slow process to be sure, but gentle use of the wedges, heat and an antique putty knife made things go quite well. As suggested, the nails were bent and rusty and it did "pop" off...

Thanks John. I also posted on Mandolin Cafe and got some good advice along those lines as well. I'm going to apply a bit of thin lemon oil to attempt to lubricate it, then gentle heat before trying to edge it out as you describe. I'll let you know how it goes.

I recently bought a very nice 1915 Gibson A mandolin with several face cracks, but otherwise in very good condition with the original pickguard and tailpiece cover in excellent condition. The face cracks shouldn't be too hard to fix, but in order to work on them, I need to remove the pickguard. It c...

Yes, That's definitely the decision! I've been working on basic repairs of the guitar first and making modest progress. I've got to say, the wood is beautiful! I pulled the back and glued up three major splits, one small one and the back seam cover. Hide glue. The foil is covering the original label...

Barry, Outstanding work! Thanks for sharing. I turned down working on an orange label Gibson Dove with almost the identical neck twist about 6 mos ago. The guitar was in beautiful condition but the neck was terrible. It's great to get insight as to exactly what it would have taken to do the job right!

Yes, I'm really leaning that way. Just wanted to get some other opinions before taking the leap!

IMG_1140.jpg IMG_1398.JPG It's typical of the era with a very simple ladder bracing. The original "bridge plate" is intact, though shows serious ware. I'm thinking that this is another good candidate for X bracing using the same bracing pattern I took from my own Washburn 1897 Style New Model 145. ...

As I mentioned in a previous post, I recently acquired an 1896 style New Model Washburn guitar. From the description in Pleijsier's excellent book Washburn Pre War Instrument Styles, I have determined that this is a 112 size guitar (rosewood b/s and headstock overlay, cedar neck, 18 fret ebony fb w ...

Thanks very much, Barry! I'll try to post the restoration of the second 115 as I do it but wanted to share this project first.

After dealing with the structural repairs to the cracks, I decided to go ahead and re-brace the guitar to an X brace pattern. I had previously restored an X braced 1897 Style Washburn 145, so I patterned this after the original X bracing from that guitar. IMG_6350.jpg With X bracing and a new bridge...

“Pam” came into my life quite a few years ago when a local violin maker offered it to me in pieces. It was a project he had planned on taking on but never got around to. IMG_3012.jpg Pam is a small bodied Washburn Parlor guitar with an oval black and white label which dates it to the 1903-07 era. IM...

Thanks for the heads up, Barry. That's one of the issues I had using the razor blade, it tends to cut through the masking tape very easily. I'll be sure to try that next time.

Well, the results are in..... I used the taped razor method (though I'm going to remember that sanding the edges down trick!). Here's how it looked with everything leveled. IMG_7583.jpg This process worked very well although minor distortion in the wood caused some scraping beyond the immediate area...

Excellent advice! I've always had a tough time getting a good burr on the razor.

Thanks for the advice, everyone. I've considered your opinions carefully and have concluded that the best solution in this case is a #20 amber superglue drop fill. The picture above makes the break look much larger than it really is (this is a Larson and the body depth is quite shallow compared to a...