MIMF

I love the idea of an actual database where you could search for neck pics by name, date etc. The Frets Neckset thread is a good but limited and you have to just go go through it and see what you can find. I'm always working on oddball and vintage guitars so having a place I can go to for info on a ...

IMG_7156.jpg IMG_7159.jpg I recently restored a Kay arch top that had been made for Sears and Roebuck. Most arch tops I've seen generally have some sort of support beneath the F holes, usually a thin plywood or spruce template that matches the cut out and re-enforces the area to prevent warpage. Th...

Hi Folks,

I was able to locate a replacement bridge for the immediate project, but I do plan on restoring more of this type and era guitar so I'm still interested in additional bridges should anyone have any to sell.

Thanks!

Chris Vallillo
Orphan Instruments

Hi Everyone, Thanks for hooking me up with the Kay bolts. Since I received those, I've bought another guitar that needs the KAY rosewood bridge that has the strings go through it, but not the top. See the attached pics. I've seen these on Kay, Harmony and Orpheum guitars. I'm getting into restoring ...

Hi Paul,

I thought I answered this yesterday, but don't see the reply. Yes, those do look like they would work. I'd be delighted to buy them from you if you can spare them. Send me the details. Thanks!

Hi Folks, I'm currently restoring a late 40s-50s Kay Jumbo guitar. IMG_6764.JPG I was ablate locate an original bridge, but unfortunately, it did not come with the original decorated bridge bolts as as seen here: s-l1600 3.jpg IMG_0560.jpg I'd love to locate a set and would be glad to pay a reasonab...

Hi John, I've traced the outline of the Gibson A Pickguard onto 1/4" graph paper which is probably a much more accurate way to give you dimensions. I'll attach it here as a J-peg. You can download the PDF of this at this google drive link: https://drive.google.com/open?id=19DjwFzsqBtxD2LX7CaUz5Pqrun...

I just did the very thing on the Harmony I spoke of in the earlier post. In that case, it was a piece of spruce about 1 1/2" X 6 1/2". After leaving the wet paper towel on overnight, a bent, sharpened knife easily slid underneath the piece and separated it with little trouble. The only tough spot wa...

Hi John, Let me take a look at it tomorrow and get some measurements. And yes, I'd be interested in a template for the bridge. Thanks!

I am currently doing a similar process on a Harmony H-165. In this case, someone modified the guitar to have a "through the top" bridge rather than the original "through the bridge only" arrangement Harmony used on these guitars. In the process of drilling pin holes, they damaged the re-enforcement ...

Hi John,

I'm not sure exactly how to measure the 1/2 moon section (not exactly sure where it starts and ends!), but I'd be glad to trace the entire pick guard while it's off and accessible if that would help. Let me know.

Success! After another slow heating with the soldering iron on the frets, I was able to get the pickguard to come lose. A slow process to be sure, but gentle use of the wedges, heat and an antique putty knife made things go quite well. As suggested, the nails were bent and rusty and it did "pop" off...

Thanks John. I also posted on Mandolin Cafe and got some good advice along those lines as well. I'm going to apply a bit of thin lemon oil to attempt to lubricate it, then gentle heat before trying to edge it out as you describe. I'll let you know how it goes.

I recently bought a very nice 1915 Gibson A mandolin with several face cracks, but otherwise in very good condition with the original pickguard and tailpiece cover in excellent condition. The face cracks shouldn't be too hard to fix, but in order to work on them, I need to remove the pickguard. It c...

Yes, That's definitely the decision! I've been working on basic repairs of the guitar first and making modest progress. I've got to say, the wood is beautiful! I pulled the back and glued up three major splits, one small one and the back seam cover. Hide glue. The foil is covering the original label...

Barry, Outstanding work! Thanks for sharing. I turned down working on an orange label Gibson Dove with almost the identical neck twist about 6 mos ago. The guitar was in beautiful condition but the neck was terrible. It's great to get insight as to exactly what it would have taken to do the job right!

Yes, I'm really leaning that way. Just wanted to get some other opinions before taking the leap!

IMG_1140.jpg IMG_1398.JPG It's typical of the era with a very simple ladder bracing. The original "bridge plate" is intact, though shows serious ware. I'm thinking that this is another good candidate for X bracing using the same bracing pattern I took from my own Washburn 1897 Style New Model 145. ...

As I mentioned in a previous post, I recently acquired an 1896 style New Model Washburn guitar. From the description in Pleijsier's excellent book Washburn Pre War Instrument Styles, I have determined that this is a 112 size guitar (rosewood b/s and headstock overlay, cedar neck, 18 fret ebony fb w ...

Thanks very much, Barry! I'll try to post the restoration of the second 115 as I do it but wanted to share this project first.