MIMF

Here’s a short video if anyone’s interested to hear what this guitar sounds like. Please forgive my not quite mediocre playing skills. https://youtu.be/5bzQsJ7vJkU

Thanks Chuck. It’s a flat top so no unusual arch. Must just be the light reflections / shadows.

I often build two or three guitars in parallel. Here‘ s the third of three that I’ve built most recently. This one is a grand auditorium sized body of East Indian rosewood with matching EIR bindings. The top is old growth curly redwood. Neck is sapele with rosewood fretboard, bridge, and head plate....

Thank you all for the kind words. Darrel, the spalted areas on the back we’re pretty solid and not spongy. I bought the spalted back + side set quite a few years ago so it was well dried. I did use some epoxy in a couple of spots to strengthen and fill some tiny voids. The original sides also had so...

Here’s the second of three guitars that I completed recently. Body is roughly grand auditorium sized, curly big leaf maple with spalting on the back. Top is engelmann spruce. Mahogany neck with ebony fretboard and bridge. Body binding is African Blackwood. Scale length is 25 1/4”. Guitar is fitted w...

I’ve done it both ways but normally install frets before shaping the back of the neck. I find it’s just easier while the back of the neck is still flat.

Haven’t posted a build for awhile so here’s a cherry and birdseye maple 00 that I recently completed on spec. Top is sitka spruce. Neck is cherry. Rosewood fretboard, bridge, rosette ring, and purfling lines. Schertler open back tuners. Scale is 24.75”. Finish is amber shellac topped with Target EM6...

Barry Daniels wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 04, 2020 11:20 am

Please tell us the full crazy request.

OK, here’s part of it...
I was thinking a carved archtop jazz guitar, but shaped more like a hollow body jazzmaster (with f holes). I want a loud 8 string ( "D" and "G" doubled) acoustic guitar that also is electric

Thanks for the sanity check Barry.
Heard from him again about what he is looking for and it gets even crazier. I’m definitely not going down this road.

I received a query from someone I don’t know to ask if I could make a guitar from a chunk of maple. Turns out the “chunk” is actually a hollow log that was harvested from a tree on his parents farm roughly 20 years ago. He says the wood has amazing quilt and Birdseye figure. Also, he says, bugs have...

Very nice. I love walnut.

You’d want to make sure that the fifth screw/bolt...the one in the centre...isn’t going to run into the truss rod in the neck.

Yeah, I know it’s in the product description. Doesn’t make sense to me that I have to do extra trimming to get a perfect fit.
I think i will email LMI and ask why it’s like that. I’m seriously considering just trimming 1/32” off each side of the tenon pattern.

I’ve always used the method outlined in the Cumpiano book to do acoustic guitars mortise/tenon and inevitably end up spending several hours fitting the neck, adjusting the angle, etc. Finally got tired of all that and decided the LMI/O’Brien jig looked to be much simpler. Well, I bought one and used...

Routing the truss rod channel in a neck has always been a bit of a nail biter for me. To make things easier, I spent a couple of hours building this sled for my plunge router. It attaches to the neck blank using 4 screws that are outside the actual shape of the neck. I use a two-way low profile trus...

Chuck Tweedy wrote:that is great!
what type of foam is it?

Just some medium density foam rubber from a local fabric store. This stuff is about 1.5“ thick but it doesn’t get compressed very much in use so it could probably be thinner and still work fine.

Dick Hutchings wrote:Whoa, I love this. Thanks so much for sharing your design.

You’re welcome. To be clear, the basic idea is not mine. This is just my take on an idea that I saw or read about somewhere else.

What a curious design.
I suppose it at least prevents the back of the bridge from lifting up if the bridge has a less-than-perfect glue joint.

...the holes that are drilled in the workmate to hold the swivel pegs could be used to hold dowels attached to the bottom of the jigs and allow them to be installed and taken off quickly. That’s pretty much what I was thinking Clay. I need to use it a couple of times to figure out the best position...

Interesting, but...what Peter said.