MIMF

John Thanks the center screw's purpose is to hold the bottom to the top. Since the 2 outside screws are applying force downward I needed something to hold the 2 pieces together. Also it makes it a lot easier to build as a matching set. I hope that makes a little more sense.

Thanks John, i used stap-locks which are flush mounted. One is off the top horn and the other is by the curl by the bridge.

Heres a pic of my bridge from the side and the bottom. The center screw provides a reverse tension. Once set I've never had to re-adjust. Also thanks David for the nice comments, a lot of comments of the myrtle especially the back. Kind of a tossup on whether it is an owl or a Dr Suess character!

Dan i use 2 set screws from above to adjust the height. the center screw is adjusted from the under side.

Another vote for files and rasps. I start with a very aggressive rasp used for trimming horse hooves. Then on to the 4 way file.

I rotated the front view and hopefully a little better view of the whole front. I also want to thank Jim for letting me know that the picture problem was not me (as I assumed LOL). A couple of other things the pickups are EMG's, tuners are sperzal and I inlaid the strap locks for a cleaner look. In ...

A close look of the back side of the head stock which I covered with the same ebony veneer in the neck laminations.

Thanks Jim yes it is a brass nut I make them myself, it is adjustable (height wise) and I think it brightens the tone a bit. I also used a brass plate inlaid into the back for the string thru, I also think this helps in the sustain. When I play this bass the only effect I use is a volume pedal to cu...

The fretboard is ebony lined with maple and chechen, this was my first time doing that. I really like the subtle effect it offers and proved to be fairly easy. I do have to change the point by the G string and round that off a bit as it catches your finger when slapping, whoops.

This picture shows the neck through construction. The neck woods are zebra wood, chechen, baked maple and strips of ebony veneer in between for a total of 9 layers. Also the center of the wings is mahogany.

I also switched bridges to a KSM bridge the sound is a lot cleaner. After comparing this bass to an alembic the sounds of the two where almost identical tonally with my bass being a little more powerful (louder).

I started using shielding paint instead of the copper shielding. Its application was easy and looks good and east to touch up if necessary.

Here's a different view showing the fiber optic lights for the fret markers. I thought this was a bit showy but after playing on a dark stage they're really handy.

And a closer view of the inlay which was done in honduran rosewood, baked maple and balayoung.

A close up of the head stock which is faced with chechen.

The back view both the front and the back are myrtle.

Thanks Jim I'm trying to add photos but it wont let me, I will keep trying.

Front view

Hi all first time on the new forum hope this works. This is my seventh bass a 5 string with a myrtle front and back. I used ebony for the fret board and simplified the inlay.