MIMF

Very nice! Especially the look of the satin oil finish. I've used Tru-Oil on gunstocks before and the nice thing about it is it can be re-applied as needed, so you don't need to worry about wear.

Tom

I've been spending a lot of time North lately, but I did find time to cook the varnish. The object of varnishing a cello or any similar stringed instrument, is to seal the wood so the finish doesn't soak in, stain it to get a consistent color and apply multiple very thin coats of colored and clear v...

Thanks Steve, I'm North for a couple weeks, so the cello is on hold, but I did find time to cook the varnish before I left. It turned out well, but was a pretty scary process working with melted pitch and 600° oil. Do you have pics of your bass project? I've seen some pretty impressive relief carvin...

Thanks guys, it's been a fun project.

I learned a lot of new skills from it and have a new pile a wood for an acoustic guitar that I'm ready to apply them to.

Tom

I've been delinquent in keeping up with my progress, so it's catch up time. The carving on the scroll is complete and it just needs to be finish scraped. The entire instrument will require that, so when all of the construction is done, I'll scrape everything just before varnish to keep it clean. The...

The cello is getting close to making sound and if I wasn't heading North for the week that would happen in a day or two. All that is left is to shape the fingerboard and fit the bridge. Of course there is still varnish to cook, but that will be more of a chemistry experiment than an instrument build...

It was a little scary purchasing it from Brazil through Facebook, but the wood finally arrived. Turns out they have a representative in Miami and that was where it was located. He was a little put out that the people in Brazil actually sold it to me because he was the only one on site and doesn't no...

The mortise is cut to attach the neck, but I decided to wait until all the carving was finished. I've seen it done both ways, but it seems like it would be a lot easier to do with the neck unattached. Most of the carved features are at least roughed in, but I still need to carve the backside of the ...

Barry Daniels wrote: ↑Mon May 11, 2020 4:04 pm Tom, you can edit your post by clicking on the pencil icon at the top.

The edit function is apparently short lived, because the pencil icon no longer appears. It's even gone on the post I created today.

Tom

Looks like I'm not allowed to edit my own post, so I'm reposting it to correct some errors with the pics. I'm also adding a pic of the bass bar installation. I reached a milestone in the project and got the body closed up. It was a shame to cover up the work that went on inside, but it's good to see...

I'm in the middle of building a new shop and have done all the research on the different lighting options available. My current shop has T8 fluorescents set up to provide about 150 lumens per square foot at 4200K, which is a decent color and amount of light for benchwork, machining, woodworking, etc...

I reached a milestone in the project and got the body closed up. It was a shame to cover up the work that went on inside, but it's good to see the hard part done. The thing emits a nice clear tone when tapped on the back, so it seems to be working as it should. I also got started on the neck by sawi...

JC Whitney wrote: ↑Mon May 04, 2020 3:19 pm That back set you posted was out of this world. Happy building (and don't forget to post your results).

Thanks. I'm currently up to my elbows with a cello project and once that is finished, my son wants me to build him an electric guitar. My acoustic is next in line.

Tom

Thank you for the Facebook tip, i did reach an actual human and was able to order the wood. They sound like very nice people, more into building guitars than maintaining websites. They are currently offering Brazilian Rosewood backs and sides, which was tempting, but I stuck with the hickory.

Tom

Stunning was my first thought as well. You can imagine my disappointment when I found that the company was kaput.

I did do some searching under the Guajuvira name to no avail, but will try the other names.

Thanks,

Tom

I am gathering materials to build an acoustic guitar and came across a back and sides made of Brazilian Hickory, which I really liked. Unfortunately when I tried to purchase it, I found the company has gone out of business. Is anyone familiar with this wood and where I can find it? Brazilian Hickory...

Thanks Randy. You can't see them in the pics, but the plate is resting on small blocks of foam, located on the node lines. I did notice a difference (mostly in intensity) in where the plate is supported for the various modes. The speaker should also be positioned under areas of movement for the same...

Tom, Wonderful thread. Thanks for sharing this with us. Have never done a bowed instrument, but would a jeweler's saw using regular blades like you would use for cutting pearl work better for the sound holes? I've used them on wood for a lot of different things and they work well. I would think a 3...

I got the belly tuned to 62Hz. for Mode 2 and 130 Hz. for mode 5. That's pretty close to an octave apart and in the recommended range so I called it good. The addition of the sound holes and bass bar will change the tuning, so it will have to be revisited anyway. I ordered spiral blades for the jewe...

I've seen it mentioned both ways for the cello (depending on the source) and will definitely look into it further before tuning the back. Tom So I've read three different articles on plate tuning for the violin and cello, one by Allan Carruth and two by Carleen Hutchins (one online and one from an ...