MIMF

I us it for fretboards, bridges, binding and other trim parts. It's hard to find logs long and straight enough to come up with 32" pieces.

Looking real good, Eric. Such nice detailing. I like the local wood idea too and have made a couple from wood off my property here, White Oak, Ponderosa Pine and Manzanita.

I've been doing rounded shoulders on several recent builds. Recess the neck shoulder leaving 1/8" edge around the edge and heel bottom, then you can floss it flush a lot easier. Use a sharp chisel or a dremel rasp. If doing a dovetail, this is done before shimming it into place. It will effect ...

I got a fret pressing device from an Etsy vendor who offered a flat caul so I got one. Haven't used it yet because most of the boards I fretted lately are 20". They are available.

Assuming this is a ladder braced guitar, now would be your chance to continue removal of the back and X brace it. I understand this really improves their sound. I'm planning on doing that to a '54 Kay jumbo. Oh, if you do that, make a mold for it first so the back goes on easier.

Photo please .

Check out Grizzly for some kits too, guitar and uke. LOTS cheaper than StewMac. Here's an example, https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-quilted-maple-acoustic-guitar-kit/t33952, and https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-hawaiian-koa-ukulele-kit/t33949. A little glue and TruOil or Osmo and you...

Use both. Two instruments at a time. I usually do more than one.

A step drill might work for that. Sets of those are pretty reasonable at Harbor Freight.

I've got a tower that I made from 8020 aluminum parts w/their linear slides. The weight of the router is the only thing holding it down on the guitar edge and that works fine for me. A way to lift the router carriage to set the donut on the guitar edge would be a useful addition though.

Check out Sylvan Wells approach to this. I'm working on two jumbos using his method. http://wellsguitars.com/Articles/Double_Tenon.php

Try bitterrootguitars.com.

I haven't done this before but have thought about adding several more laminations to the area where I want the port, alternating light and dark wood layers. Cut the hole and bevel the edge to show the alternating layers. No binding but an interesting feature.

It doesn't sound like a dovetail. Doweled butt joint possibly? Slide a feeler gauge into the joint to see if you can determine what's there. Use a magnet to check for metal. I've cut necks off with an oscillating tool and made a bolt on neck joint to fix them.

Use binding tape as the clamp.

I fixed my early 2000s Washburn with cedar top that looked like that under the bridge after I got it off. Both corners and edge were lifting. Took lots of heat and still didn't want to come off. Must have been MAG. I put it back on with epoxy. Fit was tight and clean. I'm in my upper 70s so it shoul...

I've got a set of the hardware minus the wooden jaws. Looks like I've got the start of one. Show us the details. Thanks!

Howard's Feed-N-Wax. A little goes a long way.

Here's how it turned out. Plays nice and sounds great with the Thomastic strings unamplified. Haven't plugged it in yet. Alaskan Specialty Woods Sitka top with great bear claw and CheChen back and sides.

Thanks Bob. That's just what I needed. The bass is for me so I'll have plenty of time to get it adjusted. It has a Martin neck, fingerboard and bridge on a deep J200 style body w/JJB 220 pickups. I'm looking forward to buttoning it up today or tomorrow.