MIMF

Very nice! This one would have been a great candidate for the recent "What electric guitars have you built because you couldn't buy it?" thread. The shot at the nut makes me chuckle - if I hadn't read about the neck width, I'd have assumed that picture's aspect ratio was wonky/stretched ho...

Have you considered recessing the rear of the headstock (forstner bit?) a few mm at each hole, to get wood thickness down to 13.5mm for Grovel UPTLs? I'm envisioning that the large barrel part of the UPTLs would be countersunk into the back of the headstock. Perhaps use something along the lines of ...

Assuming the neck is unfinished and not yet assembled, how about adding an 1/8" of matching maple stock to each side and then planing back to your desired width?

Oh, and the pickup slides to and fro! It just keeps getting better and better.
(my apologies to all for sidetracking this thread)

Wow - that’s wildly fun. Thanks again for sharing.

Barry - PLEASE post more pictures of that funky thing.

I'm entering my fourth decade as an architect - certainly doesn't make me an expert, but I've tried to learn from my mistakes along the way. Flat files are great both in terms of the protection they offer and keeping things flat, but Barry is right on the money regarding re: their drawbacks. Tube st...

Looking good.

Looks like you could add truss nut access pretty easily (with apologies for hacking up your image). Perhaps use oval head countersunk bolts on the strap instead of button heads to allow a clearer tool path into the truss nut?

Very nice - safe to say that your truss rod nut is at the bridge end of the neck?

I ventured down a similar rabbit hole a few years back. That project has yet to make it to the starting line, but at the time I was really intrigued by ABM's 3901 single string combination bridge/tuners (and their cousins by other mfrs). Reviews of the ABM version seemed to be predominantly positive.

Perhaps one of these was the culprit … although it seems it would have scratched up the finish. Maybe drop filled at s some point?

Perhaps a good opportunity to try your hand at a sunburst finish (if it's out near the perimeter)?

I too am mightily small. Just finished up the last of several hundred board feet of Spanish Cedar I bought a quarter century ago (used for trim work, not instruments). I’d be leery of this if it was maple, but Spanish cedar should be ok. Just use an appropriate tpi/blade and take it slow and steady ...

If you go the CNC route for the body, save the belly/arm/etc contouring to do by “hand”. That way you can stick a mock-up neck in, hang it from a strap, sit on a stool, lay on the floor with it - and really dial it in to comfortably fit your own (human) body. As for the cap.. to my eyes 3/4” looks n...

Just found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sCSUuDzrdY
It would be interesting to know if this held up over time. That page also has a link to a good brazing repair video.

Can you post a picture of the crack? Welding cast iron that thin is indeed a real tightrope walk... preheating, post heat and slow cooldown, etc. I've seen some pretty amazing successes using JB Weld. Are the two sides of the crack sill aligned? If so, could you open the walls of the crack up on the...

About thirty years ago I finished a scratch-built solid mahogany tele body with pure tung oil followed by buffing with beeswax. Still have and play it. Fantastic natural feel and look (to my tastes) - although not as rugged as other options. Might want to give a try on a piece of scrap if that intri...

If you're local seasons/climate/neighbors allow, perhaps consider a dust collection system that exhausts outside instead of filtering. My hobby-shop setup has gates at each machine, passes through a trash-can separator, and then exhausts directly outside through a simple wall cap. Admittedly, it cos...

Just noticed… this is posted in the Auctions section, not likely to get many views. Maybe try reposting in a banjo category? I saw it only because I filter for newest posts.