MIMF

I learned in engineering school that the strength of bolts is much less than the full cross sectional area. The bolt will fail first by having the threads strip off which is a smaller area to consider. Not really relevant to the discussion, but all the same.

I assumed that Andrew was talking about an 8-32, which is a small bolt (.164" diameter) with 32 threads per inch. That is half the diameter of a 1/4" bolt and a lot weaker.

I think that is way to small. I use 1/4". If you only use two bolts, in reality, all the load is carried on the bottom bolt. It better be strong.

Ibex rules are notoriously inaccurate and not straight.

Titebond II or III will work, but not the Original.

I finally got the MacRostie Binding Trimmer and it is nothing short of amazing but is a bit pricey. It is like a tiny thickness planer with 0.001" accuracy. It will do plastic or wood binding. Much more even results than a drum sander.

I agree with Clay's approach. It is probably not what a traditional violin repairman would do, but it will be the easiest approach to stabilize the loose fibers and seal the area. Just be careful that the CA doesn't run into non damaged areas.

Looks great!

That photo certainly looks better. You may be able to do a spot repair with the right materials and skills. I would assume that the original finish is nitro lacquer but you should confirm that. If so, then use some black lacquer and feather it in.

That is a mess. There is no way I would try a patch job. I would take the entire back down to bare wood and refinish it.

I think it is a good idea and have done the same. The only real complicating factor is handling different scale length. Also, the placement and angle of the saddle on the bridge will have to be standardized which might not be ideal. But I think these issues can be easily addressed.

You can use a photo processing app to reduce the size of your photos to a maximum of 150 KB.

I suggest you apply coats until you are happy with the results. If you want a full build that can be polished to a high gloss with no low spots, you may need to do a couple of dozen coats.

You should let it dry for a few days before you start handling it.

The cedar is very adsorptive at first and soaks up the finish from the rag quickly. It will even out and get better as you apply more coats. Don't over sand it, just apply more thin coats. The top will be sealed by the 2nd or 3rd coat then things will go more smoothly.

Glad it worked for you.

Not that long.

I used it one time to glue the fretboard of my first guitar. The next day I took off the clamps and the fretboard fell off the neck. Threw the glue in the trash and haven't used it since. That was 46 years ago.

A caul that places pressure along the outside edges of the fretboard is a necessity. A board with a couple of 1/4" square strips glued along the edges to follow the outline of the fretboard will work. Or a radius sanding block that is as long as the fretboard will work great. A short radius block is...

Different species of wood can glue together fine. One thing to be aware of is that when you put a water-based glue like Titebond on the fingerboard, the moisture will quickly soak into the thin piece of wood and cause it to curl up along the edges. This can cause a gap along each edge which seriousl...

Your neck looks REALLY rough. Gouges, nicks, and low spots do not glue properly. Need to work on your woodworking skills. Also, I see areas of heavy build up of glue. A tight joint will almost have no visible glue if the wood surfaces are smooth and flat. Solution is again woodworking skills as well...