MIMF

Nor mine, I'm just an A$$!

I'm guessing less than 1 year. It may have been too cold, I'm not sure but the paste cured me of wanting to use it again. So now I'm onboard with the majority even though I have proved to myself that it can work very well.

I think I was a little over the top on that post. I'll never get rid of my glue pot and hide glue but save it for the right moments in building and repair. I actually have a couple of heat lamps in my Amazon wish list for this purpose. My Titebond hide glue has turned to paste already so I won't be ...

Hmm, in one breath you say Barry makes a lot of sense and in the next you say this "Very thin and easy to heat with torch".

I also think Barry makes a lot of sense and will never heat my spatula

And if there's a way to screw it up, I'll find it.

Did someone fall on that!

Congratulations!!

This thread is scaring me away from ever trying a bolt on.

Would I love to be playing something like that! OMG, beautiful.

I'm sufficiently scared off. I offered to shave the bridge and move on.

Thanks Barry, that was a good read.

Thanks Barry, I'll let you know. It's funny, we just had a discussion on removing epoxied fretboard and it was easy. Why do you think it's impossible to remove the neck the same way? I'm sure you tried it, I'm not questioning that. I'd like to get at the root of the problem. Damn Yamaha and their fa...

After repairing the headstock I was asked to do the neck reset. I'm pretty sure it's epoxied in. I think I would like to try the dry method with a solder iron. Does anyone here have experience to share? I don't want to saw it off.

Well after getting on my bench and applying what I considered, a lot of pressure, the crack didn't budge. I used super thin CA all along the crack and then kept drop filling the area where the finish was gone. The end result is very smooth and you can't tell where the CA and the finish meet. I wish ...

Count me in!

I have a 1980s Yamaha acoustic with a broken headstock. It appears to be cracked all the way through yet I can't get it to open by hand. I'm going to try to open it up with some clamps on the bench. Once I get it glued and clamped there's the finish touchup. Any idea what was used on these?

I prefer unbleached myself and have used it on a few mandolins. I never had a problem and it looks so much better to me. The bleached ones tend to look like plastic by the time I get them buffed up.

Bending like you are doing is exactly how I do it and so far I haven't had any issue sanding out any irregularities. Once I started building guitars, I have only built mandolins with very curly maple sides, I found that rosewood is the easiest wood to bend so far for me. I haven't tried walnut. I'm ...

Cool. I have plans of getting into that next year.

Makes me wonder if this wouldn't be the ideal glue for neck to body since only heat is required for removal.