MIMF

Good tip Clay. Thanks
Thats a good price too.

I found a guy in Idaho that builds a nice jig for a reasonable price. (140)
It arrived yesterday and looks quite nice. Very well built.
If anyone is interested pm me and I'll send you the link

Hi Guys
Waddy I sent you a pm. Did you get a chance to look? If you don't have them maybe I can buy yours David.

thanks guys
I looked at the stewmac blades and they state "not compatible with other brands"
Went to Grizzly and tried about a half dozen different searches and they all came up with about 1000 products but nothing related to safety planes or.

thanks David
yeh they went out of bizz years ago
I saw that ebay post. If you read it all they say it does not fit wagner
Yeh sure looks like the right blade

Does anyone know where I can get replacement blades for a Wagner brand safety planer?
All the blades I've found state they "do not fit Wagner brand"

I've got this spruce top harmony and someone gouged out some wood when removing a bridge. Its not too deep. I'm guessing 1/32 or so. I've heard of people that put a spruce patch on damage like this. Does anyone know about that or have other ideas? If I don't fill it there will be a small gap under t...

Whats the difference between nitrocellulose lacquer and the spray cans of lacquer they sell at the hardware?

The decals have been removed ! I used an amalgamator recommended by Frank Ford via a link posted by Barry Daniels (thanks) http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/Technique/Finish/Lacquer/Amalgamator/amalgamator1.html As expected the amalgamator will take off not only the decal but also the lacquer....

Hey Waddy thanks for clearing that up for me. I do love the look of buffed wax.

I've used truoil on a few guitars and I agree with the guys that say more coats. I think its a very thin finish.
re: waxing the guitar. Really? Seems to me wax is a sure way to dampen the sound.

If they're on top of the finish I'd think you could soak them off with time under a damp cloth or paper towel, maybe use a hair dryer to heat them. Thank Peter. Tried it but didn't work for me I've also tried naptha and mineral spirits and neither worked. I could go at it with lacquer thinner but t...

Barry Daniels wrote:Here it is. Frank Ford of course.

http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier ... ator1.html

Wow ! What talent.

Brian Evans wrote:I just made mine based on the pictures in the Benedetto archtop book.

I have that book. I better dig it out and take a look.
Right now I'm inclined to go with the Robbie O'Brien plans and build my own.
thanks

Dave - finish is transparent on this one
Chuck - good question. Maybe someone else will know. As for me I'm torn between just leaving it and enjoying the history or attempting to make it look better. The only reason I consider touching it up is the side at the endpin is quite bad.

Can anyone direct me to a good deal on a jig for routing m & t and dovetail joints?
I know stewmac has one but its a little too pricey for me.

I appreciate all the advice.
I do have to make one small correction.
SOME oil paints are opaque while others are transparent. Depends on the color.

I've got an old Harmony 1203 and someone put some waterslide decals on the spruce top to cover up some damage where the bridge was once removed.
Does anyone know a good tip to remove them without damaging the wood ?

Yes very good advice ! As a fine art painter I have lots of brushes and colors. I'm wondering if I can use artists oil paints to color the brushing lacquer that I have? With oils I can match the color easily. Building the thickness has been a problem for me but I guess I just need to be more patient...

Thanks Barry thats just what I wanted to hear and a brush is my favorite tool.