MIMF

Depends on the sound you're looking for. Engelmann is usually good for fingerpicking and light playing. Of course, top thickness and bracing have a lot to do with it.

It depends on what you design the guitar for. When Martin changed from gut strings to steel, the stings were very light. When some players started putting heavy gauge strings on them, problems showed up such as bellied tops. To stop guitars coming back for free warranty work, they moved the X brace ...

The body size and shape should be the same. Beef-up the X braces and use a trussrod. Irving Sloane recommended using a harder wood like cherry for the neck, but that was before adjustable trussrods.

Brent

I heard from a reputable source many years ago (can't remember just off hand) that the oval soundhole was not just for aesthetics. D'Aquisto believed that if a water hose would shoot a stream of water farther when pulled into an oval, sound would project farther from a guitar with an oval soundhole ...

I have to say, my favorite is the multi-hole. There's a very noticeable difference in sound. Very nice.

Brent

I use 'inserts' like Clay, but I have multiple adjustable L shaped brackets that I can change to the shape that I'm building (much like Mega-mold) for the sides. I made two of these with double thick 18mm birch-ply and they should last more than my lifetime (I hope, lol) For the top doming, there is...

I have some parts from an old German luthier that were 'ebonized' maple. The look is pretty good but i'd be careful if I had to sand them.

I've been using Lee Valley 2002. It's a high solids 45% PVA that dries glass hard and a tan color. If squeeze-out is not cleaned up right away, it will chip off, like hide glue. It does not soak in to the wood. In darker woods the joint is virtually invisible and no creep.

There was a 'sinister' in Toronto that only sold things for left handed people. Not sure if they sell tools, but they are The Sinster Store.

The only adhesive that I know of that recommends scuffing is epoxy.
Some bad info on grain orientation as well.

Brent

Has anyone tried Lee Valley's 2002 GF for laminating ? I've used it for years on dark colored woods and even on light woods where the tan glue line isn't a problem. Much like HHG, it dries glass hard and cleans up easily with water. I've used System Three for pore filling and I'm not crazy about the...

Tone is in the ear of the player. As an example, I bought an Ibanez Artcore jazz archtop because I liked it and the sound. There's a long list of bad reviews on the pickups and most people claim they've changed them out to high-end units. I really like that guitar as it is, and I've had good comment...

If I'm reading this correctly, the question is about acoustic guitar necks and the possibility of a neck reset in the future.
A really good fitting dovetail joint requires very little glue. If it locks in place as it should, there would be no cold-creep because the glue is not under any stress.

It should work fine, as long as you remember it has a very short
gelling time. Make sure the 'dry fit' is good and make a dry run
to see how much time it takes.

Call them 'custom sound ports' and charge extra for them.

I put together a solid (relatively) inexpensive cutter using parts from Lee Valley's
Veritas Inlay String Tool System.
1 compass center+inlay cutter head=a very solid tool for life long use.

A friend of mine has an early '60's Martin O-18 mahog with red spruce top. That thing holds up well even against banjos and has great tone. Scale is 24.9.

I'm in

very nice. I'd like to hear it

I like sharp edge tools too, for the most part. With figured woods, I haven't found any that works better than
a microplane rasp, but I'm always willing to try.