MIMF

As far as I know the Larsson brothers exclusively build Guitars for Steel strings. 1916 they definitive did that anyway. There is a lot of guitars like this that is also build for steel string with similar bracing. It was common though for some "repairman" to put a tail piece on it later o...

You mentioned that you have veneer... if it's not glued to the headstock yet you could cut the outline with a jeweler's saw or small coping saw. I just got done doing that myself. I've always used a dremel with router base before, but I actually think it was easier this way. ......and if you haven´...

I think that what you name "adjustable dovel mold" is what I always used. The dovel is running in some slices and I am totally free to very fast change the mold to whatever shape I want to build. I do a template of the outershape of the instrument. Normally I just need the half of the oute...

Here is one I made with the back made out of salvaged wood from an old table. The leg was made in solid Brazilian RW so I thought I have to use it for something nice. No problem with the size of the pieces, just some more glue joints to do. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/tyko/runessonbrazback...

Very very nice work!

I have to add some information according to the last post from Michael Lewis. I do level the fretboard and make the radius to it after I glued it on, that is for me an must cause things might change some when you glue two things together and I also find it easier to glue on a flat fretboard and also...

Definately first slot the fret board, if it is tapered or not comes depends on the shape and size of the material I am using. It feels slightly easier for me if it is square and not tapered because of the way I do the slots, but either way works. The slots I do with handsaw and a special kind of jig...

I just don´t get it why you couldn´t take all the binding out when you realized that it didn´t work? Just heat it a short time with an iron and it will easily melt the glueline. Then you could have cleaned all out and and start over again.

Looks neat! I also got tired of using the tape so I started using bicycle tube for gluing bindings (with hot hide glue). Don´t use any sort of fancy jig though...

I did (and do) use a backing strip. But that wasn´t really the problem. It didn´t crack, it just didn´t wanted to bend (plus cracked along the grain). But as I said, I might just had bad pieces. See no reason to try it again though, there is a bunch of different nice woodspieces out there!

There is different ways of doing nearly everything. The way to nothch the braces so that they fit snugly over the centerstrip is used on Takamine guitars for example. I prefer to glue the centerstrip in one peace. If I like to use some shorter strips I can easily join them unvisible when I glue them...

Intresting that Ron Belanger says that it is easy to bend......for me it wasn´t! From all the instruments I built of different woods Wenge is the only one that I gave up on. Wasn´t possible to bend at all.....I just managed to bend it very slightly on my bending iron but I did managed to give it som...

Very nice and tasteful! Nice work with the dying of the beutiful maple.

Thanks for all comments!
The design of the end of the fret board is something I try to have on all my instruments. It isn´t really possible on my ukeles without any fretboard though.....

The scale is 520 mm and the body measurement are: 385 x 340 x 65-80

Yepp, it is mandolintuners from Rubner!

Three days ago I strunged up my latest octave mandolin. Today it was sold.....before I even had the time to take some real photos, just did some fast in the workshop. It is totaly built with local wood from Switzerland where I happen to live since some years. I am trying to convince people about tha...

Very nice, I like it!