MIMF

That's good to know about the exhaust valve helping with oxygen intake. I didn't realize that was the case.

You may be able to reduce the snipe by adjusting the pressure rollers. I have mine set as light as I can while still preventing the work from slipping on the belt, and that seems to help some with snipe. I don't think it's possible to eliminate it, though. I just always try to have my rough stock be...

I got the Resp-O-Rator when it came out, maybe 15 years ago, and I used it for a while, but it was inconvenient, and hurt my mouth after wearing it for a while. The mouthpiece also got really gross ;) For the past several years I've been using a 3M N95 with a valve (so it doesn't fog my glasses), bu...

Thanks Clay-- I did end up making a new bridge yesterday, leaving the top quite thick (basically the original thickness of the blank). It made a big difference, though it looks odd being that thick and it's still a little more harsh sounding than I would like. I was wondering if increasing the flexi...

I was gifted a student violin for my daughter to play, and it sounds rather harsh and raspy under the ear (enough to make one not want to play it) but sounds pretty good a few feet away. I experimented a bit with blue tack and found that about 0.5 grams on the top of the bridge totally transforms th...

I've often wondered about this too. I don't build electric guitars but I build acoustic instruments and I build electronic instruments, and it's my understanding that with electronic products, every component, including the enclosure, packaging, etc., is supposed to be ROHS compliant. On a guitar th...

We're in complete agreement there!

I actually disagree with the above. I just took a look at a hand-dyed sunburst to verify this: If you turn it in the light, the dark bands actually do shift position, which I would say is a result of the dye enhancing the chatoyance. I know it doesn't sound possible, but try it! I believe when you'r...

...I removed this post because I changed my opinion... see below.

I do a lot of stained figured maple, and in addition sanding back the first application of dye, it helps to really wet the wood with dye a few times during the process so it soaks into the areas of end grain. Then "scrub" it with a rag wetted with whatever solvent you're using (alcohol or ...

I sand just the areas around holes with "odorless" mineral spirits, and the rest of the instrument with water.

Before I switched to CNC I got high speed steel inlay cutters from Rescue Pearl. They were $2 each and lasted for several headstock overlays. They are less likely to break than carbide. Now I get carbide cutters from Precisebits. Their 3-flute Ultrabits are great for inlay in ebony (they're the same...

Bob, nice modification of that pullshave. I have one and love it, except for the handle. In fact, I wrote a review of for American Luthiery several years ago, and the handle was my one gripe.

My Ipod Touch doesn't have an internal mic, so I plug a cheap mic into it. I'm pretty sure you could do that with an Iphone too. I use the Peterson app, and it works pretty well. I do have to turn on the noise reduction, otherwise the Bb of my fluorescent shop lights dominates.

I have a spreadsheet on my web site that calculates downward force and a variety of other variables for archtop instruments.