MIMF

I'm liking playing it very much. It's got that Reso bite but not overwhelming and I've also got a ultrathin pickup under a wood cover up at the end of the neck which is very effective for amplified playing.

Binding was from Gurian, Shipping to Australia was expensive but I think worth it.

Finished mine today

The 28mm deep well has worked out for the weissencone with a 3mm saddle protusion giving me my preferred 8mm string clearance over the board

Hi Jeff, I'm currently building a Weissencone too, Just closed the box yesterday. Had some advice from Freeman too when I started.Thanks Freeman. Depends on your cones and T bar and cover plate but I ended up with 28mm depth (4mm top plus two layers of 12mm plywood) and it look like that will sit ni...

Thats so much better than the typical horrible splines on the back of the headstock

Untill recent years, Gibson fretted boards first, and cut or ground the ends flush, then installed tall binding and filed it down between the frets, Hence the binding nibs that Vintage gibson owners are keen to preserve

I think of this as being analagous to the output tube in an amplifier. You have a fixed DC supply at the anode with the signal superimposed on it so it goes up and down. The output transformer passes only the Alternating signal not the DC component. The downward component which the soundboard receiv...

At times, problems with string action(and compensation) at the nut can be improved by keeping the string windings on the post to a minimum so that you do not have an extreme break angle on the string across the nut. This is particularly a problem on Fender style headstocks on the E string and someti...

I went back and measured what I have on my bass with the Savarez strings.
I would expect that what peter wilcox suggested would be very close

I built a bass a few years back using savarez nylon core strings. Compensation requirements were minimal, and pretty well straight across. The nylon core has a much lower modulus of elasticity than steel so the tension does not rise as much when fretting. I would suggest you try the strings on an el...

Yes, it all seems to be based around a fear of routing.

found it
Carl Thompson
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUL-JlzkkWY

I recall seeing that video too. Can't remember the name, but it was a guy building fairly high priced basses

I thought I could try putting some cut-off bolts on an angled support and grinding the heads to points, screwing them almost flush into the holes. and then tapping the neck into the pocket to create drill guide indents. Is there a better way? Whatever you do, don't screw in pointed cut-off bolts ti...

Tim, I use the stewmac fret calculator which gives a measurement to the break point of the high and low E on the saddle. Things to watch out for -some people will quote compensation figures to the front of the saddle slot, others to the middle. Either is ok if you specify, but often this is not give...

The 3 1/2 or 4 degree angle is a common figure for a carved top Les Paul not a flat top junior For a junior use whatever angle gets you the right string height at the bridge for the bridge you are using AND gives you the right clearance over the pickup (if using a dogear p90) You should allow for a ...

Could you drill into the end of the neck under the fretboard to epoxy in whatever reinforcement you use to support the extension?

A couple of things I have found useful
-cover the rim side of the plane chisel or knife with a piece of binding tape to make it relatively safe from gouging the rim
- a few razor saw cuts to depth in the waist area make it much easier

Alan Carruth wrote:

In sum, then, increasing the break angle beyond the minimum does nothing to help the guitar, and may hurt it. Why do it?

Only to give you some margin for future saddle lowering

I agree, too much is a bad idea and the typical Martin arrangement is excessive