MIMF

Actually it sounds like a pretty good idea to me. But please tell me about the string nut on that picture.

In my case, unfortunately late. A few weeks after sanding and buffing a white haze appeared on many spots. Nothing to do with "blushing" during the coating process. It happened to four instruments. Too bad the only solution is to strip all the bad finish and start over...

I never had that problem.

I've had incompatibility even with different brands of solvents and lacquer, so I don't reccomend changing the method/product on the same finishing job. About the runs, if they're not REALLY bad, I just ignore them, keep applying the coats and leave the final leveling to the sanding/polishing proces...

I found that linseed oil cures faster than tung oil with similar results, and I've been using it for a while.

Cool retro feel! And clever bridge ground too.

Did you have the time to test drive that vintage tremolo? I'm building a guitar with the same unit right now, and I don't know exactly what to expect.

Cheers!

You have quite a long neck pocket, you didn't really need to extend the neck through the neck pickup cavity. Anyway that's looking great so far.

I like it very much, although the pickups seem way too hot to my taste. These knobs look terrific, could you post some close-up pics? Also, your neck attachment screws seem to go inside the neck pickup cavity, how did you deal with that? Shorter screws perhaps?

Great job anyway.

Some pics would be nice! Also the weight of the body without the neck and the hardware.

Neck building scared me for years. Today I wouldn't let anyone do it for me because it's my favorite building step. You can really tweak playability, and perhaps tone, and it's funny. Surely you can get someone to do the gross work for you, but you'll miss it.

"Like the fingerboard and binding is applied to the neck block before the neck is actually shaped?" Usually yes. There are many ways to skin the cat, though. "So if I had the neck already shaped and then apply the fingerboard and binding after I suppose there are some difficulties to consider?" Yes....

The maple will give the best contrast, and thus the best look in my opinion. Just remember that the cocobolo will release a yellowish stain over the neighboring woods once it gets contact with solvents in glues and finishes, and a clear colored wood will show it more than the others. Believe me, it ...

After the gross part of the carving.

Thanks a lot Gilbert! Certainly you could do that, I forgot to mention that it's very well balanced and quite lightweight for a bass. I'm very happy with it. Peter, that's an optical illusion! The binding is flush with the sides and the top. The binding was installed before the carving, in the desir...

Thanks Peter! It's black plastic binding, that was installed before the carving on the top.

My first try on a bass guitar.

Body: marupá
Neck: goiabão
Fretboard: indian rosewood

Electronics:
Golden Age Jazz Bass pickups
Balance pot
Tone pot

Finish:
Nitro on the body
Linseed oil for neck and fretboard

Comments welcome!

A classic! Noticed you did a different carving on the neck heel, could you show details?

The saharaburst is way very cool...

By the way, the picture may give the impression that the binding is getting thinner towards the body, but it doesn't! It's just optical illusion from the perspective. I just don't have a better picture now anyway.

Not a dumb question at all. With a constant radius and a tapering fingerboard width, the thickness on the edges will taper as well. It's not much but can be noticeable, particularly if you have a tight radius and binding. Four solutions as I see: 1- Use a compound radius. 2- Sand the upper part of t...