Tinting epoxy with "NGR Stain"? - created 05-24-2009

gifford, julian - 05/24/2009.23:41:43

The NGR dye states it contains methyl alcohol and acetone so it should be compatible with epoxy and also work as a thinner for the epoxy right?

The Pore filling thread with epoxy is great. Very helpfull.

I want to porefill mahogany following the steps from that thread, but I want the pores black, and finish with a trans black.

1- seal with shellac

2- pore fill with black tinted epoxy

3- sand to bare wood

4- seal again with shellac or clear waterbase finish

5- spray trans black

6- clear top coats

Sound like it would work?

Thanks

Julian

It might work, test the epoxy and NGR for compatibility and if the mixture hardens well and you like the color, go for it.

When I want black epoxy I use lamp black powder. The NGR may be purple of some other color when it is diluted by the epoxy, but lamp black is black in any concentration.

In case you don't know this, mix the epoxy thoroughly before adding the color.

You could definitely achieve this same effect with black stain in paste wood pore filler.

Has anyone tried, or heard of using RIT fabric dye to tint epoxy?

RIT is a water-based dye. I don't think that would work for epoxy.

Thanks for the info.

I'll experiment with the epoxy and clear water base filler and regular waterbase filler with stain on scrap first.

Julian, I have no personal experience with the clear filler but lots of folks have given it a negative review.

If you are wanting a colored filler, I strongly encourage you to try paste wood pore filler. The oil-based version is easier to use than the water-based, as it doesn't dry as rapidly.

There is a good set of 3 videos on YouTube showing how to use paste wood filler.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQfm0nLXJ7Q

I have tried that clear filler, and found it quite useless. It just doesn't work.

The NGR may be purple of some other color when it is diluted by the epoxy

I use the universal, liquid color tints from Stew Mac, they mix well with epoxy. Adding Yellow to the Black kills the Purple.

I'm testing epoxy and the clear paste filler right now.

Already 2 coats of tinted water based filler applied- and only 1 slow coat of epoxy with dye. If it dries tomorrow, I'll add a 2nd coat.

Both are black- purple wasnt an issue. But the epoxy is curing VERY slowly with the dye. The waterbased filler was very easy to work with so far and is probably going to be the clear cut winner in my test, but wont know for sure the results until tomorrow or wednesday.

Remember that it takes VERY small amounts to tint the glue. If you use too much dye it will cure slower. Most of the time, when it comes right down to using it you can leave your glue a bit lighter tinted than you might think, because when you actually put it where it'll go it darkens up.

Water based filler is my winner.

I used "enduro" 'Wat R Base' transparent. It filled the pores with better color than the epoxy, and was so quick and easy to apply. Though the epoxy wasn't very fresh and a slower cure epoxy to begin with... it was free...

I do find it odd however, that often I read people like epoxy better than waterbased filler. I had no trouble at all and found it much cleaner and easier than epoxy- A quick setting time doesnt bother me as I'm used to working fast (except when epoxying aluminum binding on a neck... Takes a while to get all the clamps on, and 5 minutes is a challenge!)

The fact that it sets so fast, and I can get a 2nd or even 3rd coat on in a matter of hours is a real bonus.

This weekend I'll use it on my real projects- one clear and one tinted- and see if I still like it better.