Staufer adjustable neck hardware [Pictures] - created 03-01-2011

Schramm, David - 03/01/2011.00:42:01

Does anyone know if there is a source for replica neck hardware for the Staufer Legnani model adjustable neck? I have two Staufer's under construction, but I'm going for a more authentic design rather than using a 2" ss allen bolt and Tee nut.

I'm using the Rubner six on a side Staufer tuning machines rather than the Rodgers. The Rubners are only about $300USD and have a hand engraved back plate!

David,

When I've looked on the Rubner site for the heel mechanism I couldn't find it. That was some months ago, it may be different now. I'd like to get these things too, let us know what you find out, David.

The Staufer mechanism is sold by Rubner. I just got an email from them and I will be ordering some of them. Here is a photo.

That is it. Same device sold since 190 years. Patented .

I've been using the allen bolt plus threaded insert but this appeals. What is the purpose of the long hex piece sitting below the key? And how much are they David?

The hex part is the piece that fits into the heel. Cost is 9 Euros

I use socket head cap screws and T nuts for my takedown travel guitars. I also bore through the heel and put a metal reinforcing plate for the cap head to bear against.

With the Rubner device, how thick of an head block can you use? Does the kit also include the clock key?

Although it looks like a person could fabricate the device from a nipple (as commonly used for lamps), and a couple of nuts and a hex coupling it might be less trouble to buy it. Do they offer "quantity" discounts?

They do on their tuning machines. They are very easy to deal with. Shoot them an email, and they will answer you promptly.

I wondered if that is what the hex nut did. I just use a washer under the head of the cap screw. I'd worry that the hole for the hex nut was reducing the shear capacity of the heel more than necessary.

Yes, Rubner is a nice company to deal with and it is really kind of cool that they still provide all those old stuff that they do. I also got a nice Christmas card from them..... ( :

When it comes to the Staufer neck hardware I also think the hex bolt on the shaft looks really big. I should never sacrifice to much wood out from the neck heel. Seems to risky to me. A flat washer will do the same work.

I am really a fan of the Staufer adjustable neck idea and use it as often as the customer aloud me. Also used it for 10 stringed cittern and for guitar with 013 strings as well as for guitar with detachable neck for easier travel.

Tyko Runesson, please remember to login using your complete name when you post. Thanks.

I also have only very good things to report about this nice family.. and Markneukirchen guys accomplished such splendid things in the past..

Those interested by such adjustable neck mechanisms could also find some inspiration in what is, to my knowledge, the only really meaningful innovation brought to the very old Stauffer idea/1821. It is the so-called "differential screw" mechanism, as often used in precision mechanics (microscopes are an example). Allan Beardsell (Canada) proposed it a few years ago to improve the Stauffer thing. A short report in a number of American Lutherie describes that thoroughly. Simple and bright too.

Alain, can you explan what that "differential screw" mechanism that Allan Beardsell proposed is?

Look at the site where is explained how to build "a one dollar microscope" and you will see a simple way to build this object. (The Wikipedia definition is a bit meager).

The principle is very simple, if you have two following (co-axial) sections of threaded rods with a slight difference between the threads, say thread A and B with B very close to A, each having its own bolt OK, then when you turn this compound bolt by one 360° rotation the distance between the two bolts just increase (or decrease) by A-B.

I ordered the Rubner neck hardware on Thursday and it arrived on Saturday! I live in the USA so that was fast!

The tuners arrived two days ago on Tuesday.

Did they provide instructions? I'm having a little trouble figuring out where all the parts fit, especially the notched washer.

They did not come with instructions. No need for them. It's pretty much self-explanatory. The notched nut threads onto the hollow bolt that goes through the heel block. In the next few days I'll be installing it so I will upload a photo.

Here's a good explanation about the setup.

http://www.euroguitars.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=722&sid=d24d92d08c29fac90cd108c7eeaeb2ba&start=10

Hi Paco,

No, endgrain is not glued to the sides in the Staufer design. Endgrain of the heel block is glued to the soundboard and back.

Here is how the hardware is installed in the heel block.

Nice David. Is that a maple box? With the now (nicer) available Rubner tuning machines, I am waiting for the finished guitar very impatiently.

You likely know my addiction to the Viennese neck solution. I use it with almost all my guitars, even modern ones now. Long life to the Rubner family.

Yes, The back and sides are maple.

Here are some photos of the progress of my Staufer:

Gorgeous!

Wow David, that is looking quite beautiful. I hope you will post photos of the finished instrument. The hardware looks elegant.

Lovely guitar,

Are you making an exact replica of a Staufer, or just a close copy? Does anyone offer a plan for a Staufer replica?

David,

That is going to be one beautiful piece of work, and your workmanship is wonderfully crisp and clean.

Looking great, David.

I just came across this: http://stauffer-and-co.com/

I think that anyone with an interest in Stauffer and his age would find this soon to be released book a great asset. If I had the spare change I would be adding it to my library!

Such books are made for collectors and Museum Libraries. I find them rather expensive for what they give for the average guitar builder. I met P.E. Hoffmann a couple of times: nice and knowledgeable guy.

BTW, the most probable right way to spell Stauffer is with two f. Some years ago, I was severely corrected by the Boston Museum Curator, after I published a paper on adjustable necks in AL.At that time, I wrote his name Staufer... but we have been boldly advised to be more serious.

I have been told later that both ways to write the name appear upon his numerous (right or counterfeited) labels but... Staufer labels were NOT good according to this very serious man.

Clay, Yes, it is a replica.

Staufer or Stauffer, it doesn't matter to me. I've seen both labels. The instruments that I've handled spelled it Staufer on the label. So I'm fine with that spelling. Restorers that I highly respect spell it with one "f". Since the instrument I am basing my replica on was spelled with one "f" that is how I spell it. If the instrument I was building was based on an instrument with two "f's" I'd spell it that way to designate the original instrument being replicated.

I have several plans for Staufer guitars. One from a museum in Germany and others from luthier friends who have restored these instruments for collectors and museums. The only commercial plan available that I know of is the one in Germany. It is the same Stauffer used in James Westbrook's book (this instrument label has two "f's" which is why I spelled it that way). The bridge on that instrument is not an original. I don't trust the specs on that plan. But you can make a pretty good replica off that one. I use the drawings and photos from a couple friends who have restored these instruments. Brune has a good article on Viennese style guitars featuring Staufer and Scherzer in an old Vintage Guitar magazine. You can also make your own plan from many of the photos on the internet. Just expand the image on your printer until it fits the specs for the instrument.

Randy, No templates came with the tuners. I made my own for future use. I made a simple drill jig for the string posts. The first neck/head that I made took 20 hours!!! The bummer is I screwed up the placement of the tuners and tossed it out. The next one took about 8 hours. The first one was good practice. I now have a good method for making this Viennese style covered vee. I have another neck that I'm starting. I used PU glue for the covered vee. I know it isn't like the original with hide glue. I used to think that PU glue leaves a dark glue line. It doesn't. It's invisible and looks just like it was done with hide glue. I've been using it to join my tops for a few years now. Haven't used it on spruce yet.

David

The fact is that Stauffer has been very extensively copied ( sometimes label included) all over his century. The red seal was supposed to render the thing more true.

Ian Watchorn (Aust.) published long ago a very nice booklet on the Vienna school. I suppose you have it.

Yes, I have Ian's 2002 Stauffer booklet.

Do you plan to finish the neck in black? If so, and if not a secret, I am still looking for a very practical, I mean for me (my ability in finishes is limited), and nice looking solution.

I am looking too. My best result was to fill the pores, stain with ebony spirit die, spray with ebonising acrylic lacquer (aerosol), level, build up finish with french polish to which I added stain and finally rubbed with pumice to lose the gloss. I found that the black reveals any imperfections in the surface and when you rub down it is very easy to cut through to the pale wood. I'd be interested to read what you have tried.

I have been less exacting I guess. Agree with you, it does reveal imperfections even with careful pore filling. I had two periods. Period one: a kind of "monocomposant" (English?) plolyurethane paint two coats with mixed results. Then I could not find that paint anymore in small quantity in Paris stores. Period two, until recently: just plain Griffin Alkyd fine arts paint two coats.

The look is OK but the feel under the thumb is not that enjoyable.

Still looking too. I have seen two components polyurethane paints that were splendidly finished. Looked like a Steinway. But only available in liters... and expensive.

And the traditional way (shellac plus pigments) is not without problems, at least for guys like me.

You can also use black, opaque lacquer topped with some clear coats.