Removing nitrocellulose lacquer from fret wire - created 07-17-2007

Bellis, Dominic De - 07/17/2007.08:59:08

After lacquering/staining/lacquering my first bass neck project I now need to remove the dried lacquer from the fret wires. Following the Reranch guidelines, I did not mask-off the wires since it was described that scraping the frets after the lacquer step is best. Does anyone have a tool that works for this step, or is there another way...it's very difficult to not "slip" and scratch the fingerboard. Thanks.


Johnson, Dwight - 07/17/2007.09:02:58
Sandpaper is my friend.

Protect the fingerboard with making tape and rub the frets with 0000 steal wool. They should come out nice and shinny.


Swanson, Mark - 07/17/2007.09:11:02
MIMForum Staff, Michigan

The best way to do it is to scrape them right away, while the lacquer is still soft. You can make a little tool for this out of a nail! Cut a little notch that matches the fret wire in the edge of the head, and then use it to scrape along the fret to remove the finish from the fret. Hit the notched nail with a bit of 320 grit sandpaper to make sure there are no burrs that will scratch the frets or the fingerboard. Do this before you dress or polish the frets.


Bellis, Dominic De - 07/17/2007.09:27:09

Hello Dwight, and thanks for writing. Yes, I have "0000" steel wool and you are correct, it works great. I'm using a dental pick (flat blade that is curved) which actually fits well over the bass fret wire. My problem is that the lacquer is pretty tough and while it does not really "stick" to the wire, you need to use a fair amount of force to scrape the lacquer. The challenge is getting the lacquer and stain off the wire that is right against the fingerboard -- I had 3 slip-ups so far, accidentally scraping off lacquer and stain right at the edge of the wire on the fingerboard. I do not intend to re-stain or re-spray theses slip-ups as this would likely make everything worse...can you tell this is my first attempt?!?

Maybe I'll switch to only steel wool with masking tape on the fretboard. Do you think this is all I need to use?


Bellis, Dominic De - 07/17/2007.09:32:05

Mark - Thanks! And, you read my mind -- I had removed lacquer/stain from 2 frets about 1 week ago, right after most of the clear coating was done, and my dental pick (see above post) worked well, no slip-ups. Not realizing that hardened lacquer would be much more difficult to work with, I waited for the finish to cure a bit, but now it is really tough to work with. I knew about he "nail scraper" but don't have the right file/tool to cut the notch. How did you make your tool?


Robinson, Greg - 07/17/2007.09:39:42
Very high truth-degree...

Dominic, are you scoring either side of the fret with a razorblade/exacto first?


Bellis, Dominic De - 07/17/2007.09:45:05

Greg, no I am not. I did not know/realize to do that.


Robinson, Greg - 07/17/2007.09:58:42
Very high truth-degree...

It will help to prevent chipping around the fret, and make it easier to remove.


Bellis, Dominic De - 07/17/2007.10:03:03

Greg -- thanks very much; I will be sure to include this step from now on.


Swanson, Mark - 07/17/2007.10:40:52
MIMForum Staff, Michigan

I just used a needle file to make the notch.

I have one idea, but I have not tried it- you might be able to gently warm the fret with a soldering iron, and it may soften the finish just enough to make it easier to scrape off. DON'T get it too hot, you don't want to loosen any glue if you glued the frets in, and you just don't want to make it any hotter than you need just to soften the finish. Try this carefully, like I said it's just an idea I have not tried. Gentle heat.

And, scoring along the fret on each side is a very good thing to do!


Bellis, Dominic De - 07/17/2007.10:53:41

Mark, thanks for your insights, and the gentle heating suggestion. I'll hunt down a needle file and use a large flat-headed nail. While I like the heating suggestion, I don't know if I trust myself with that approach just yet. However, it is something to keep in mind. Thanks.